Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Gian Piero Motti, Ugo Manera, 1973
Page Views: 348 total · 10/month
Shared By: B L on Jun 3, 2018
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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A superb route with excellent aid and free pitches that climbs the "main" wall of the Caporal along a natural line. This route is an excellent introduction to aid climbing. The first pitch is excellent free climbing (5.10) up some flakes and dihedrals with a lieback crux. The second pitch is the most interesting pitch of the climb. It climbs a thin crack that veers to the left towards the top (A1+ or 5.13a). Pitch 3 traverses left and up to a penji onto a ledge to another chain belay (A1 or 5.12). Pitch 4 is a beautiful flake/crack (5.10+ or 5.8 C1). Pitch 5 is a little less attractive and can be skipped by traversing right along the big ledge to the rappels (otherwise reached from the top anchor). With 1 80 meter rope, make 1 short rappel to an anchor in a dihedral (2 bolts), then another rappel to a 2-bolt-anchor in the middle of a blank face. From there, it is 35-ish meters to the ground, near the start of the route.


From the parking spot, follow the no-longer-used road towards the wall (the east) (sign saying "Caporal"). After a few meters, turn left along the road. Another sign saying "Caporal" appears after a few more meters. Follow the trail with cairns and white/red marks to the base of the wall. Leave the trail at the base and cross a slab (fixed rope). If the slab is too wet to cross safely, you can climb up straight from below. The first pitch starts up a flake / dihedral system.


A full set of cams to #3 with some sizes twice, 1 hammer, 2 Lost Arrows, 1 med. and 1 large beak, 2 Angles, 1 set of stoppers and 15 quickdraws. Offset cams are useful, The pitons are currently fixed. The bolts have all been replaced, the anchors are on solid chains.


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