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Routes in Nesakwatch Spires

Dairyland T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ensawkwatch Enchainment (D) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Nesakwatch Spire - NW Face Right(Neufeld/Struthers) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Nesakwatch Spire - NW Face to W Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow
North Nesakwatch Spire - Nesakwatch Notch (NE Buttress) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Mod. Snow
North Spire - North Ridge (PD+) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
North Spire - SW ridge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Spire - East Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Mod. Snow
South Spire - North Ridge (AD-) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Spire - South Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Drew Brayshaw, Marc-Andre Leclerc, Jesse Mason, 2009; FWA Marc-Andre Leclerc (solo) 2017
Page Views: 172 total · 37/month
Shared By: Dru B. on May 31, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This route climbs immediately right (north) of the Priest-Coupe couloir that divides Rexford from South Nesakwatch Spire. It is a fun 9-pitch rock climb, but requires a long snow slog to reach and is best done early in the season before the snow melts. Crampons and ice axes are required for the approach. Most of the climbing is 5.7, but there are a couple of short 5.9 sections that can be avoided. A very full day out, especially if descending west into Nesakwatch Creek and then returning to a vehicle parked in Centre Creek

Location

Cross Centre Creek and approach up the snow gully as for the North Face of Rexford or the Priest-Coupe couloir. At the bergschrund at the base of the P-C, move right onto rock and climb 9 pitches of slabs, cracks and ledges.

Protection

A light rack from nuts to 3" cams is sufficient. Bring a 4" or 5" cam or big balls if climbing the offwidth summit block on South Nesakwatch.

Photos

Dru B.
 
Dru B.  
 
Marc-Andre soloed the FWA of this in 2017. Jul 15, 2018

More About South Spire - East Buttress

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