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Routes in Mount Rexford

Common Knowledge (South Pillar of False Summit) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Couloir WI2 Steep Snow
Northeast Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
West Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3000 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: Hugh Burton, John Burton, Colin Oloman, Steve Saba, 1969
Page Views: 61 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dru B. on May 31, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

The long, prominent ridge dividing the north and east faces, to the right (north) of the shorter and steeper east ridge.
The most common approach is as per the east ridge to the mouth of the basin between them, then up the prominent inset basalt dyke on the south side of the ridge, across from the east ridge start, to gain the crest. The original ascent climbed 5th class brush from near the toe. An ascent via steeper rock on the north side has also been used.
The ridge holds snow very late in the year so you should expect a mountaineering climb rather than an all-rock scramble under most conditions.
Once on the ridge crest, 3rd to low-5th climbing leads upwards with no real cruxes to the summit. It's a long way to go if you pitch it out, or a couple hours of fun movement if travelling ropeless.
This route is sometimes downclimbed to regain Centre Creek after climbing the more difficult East Ridge. Even if soloing, expect a long day round trip (12 hrs+) if going this way.

Location

From Centre Creek logging road, cross the creek on a log and pick your way through bush to follow the gully up into the basin below pillar of Pi, as per the East Ridge. Cross under the toe of the east ridge on sloping slabs to gain the NE ridge dyke start.

Protection

A few pieces of passive pro (nuts and a hex/tricam or two) are probably more than enough.

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