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Routes in Mount Rexford

Common Knowledge (South Pillar of False Summit) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Couloir WI2 Steep Snow
Northeast Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
West Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Shaun Neufeld, Drew Brayshaw, 2006 with 2 variant pitches in 2005
Page Views: 102 total · 22/month
Shared By: Dru B. on May 30, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

There are two variant starts. The right-hand 2-pitch start (2005) climbs a 5.8 series of left-angling ramps, then a long right-facing corner and dyke system that goes from fists to fingers, with a crux at the end (5.11-) to a ledge. The left-hand (2006) start climbs a 5.9 wide crack and ledge system, then a 35 m finger crack (5.11/11+?) past the perched "Caulk Boot Flake" to the same ledge. From here, the pitches are 3) 5.10 offwidth, 4) 5.10 headwall crack, fingers to chimney; 5) 5.8 ramps; 6) scramble (4th class) to the W-notch.  

Location

From the normal West Ridge hiking trail, gain the lower West Ridge shoulder, then follow an inobvious ramp down into the basin south of the peak. Climb up the center of the south buttress of the false summit from there.

Protection

Full rack including doubles to triples of finger size cams and at least one 4" and one 4.5" cam.

Photos

Matthew Tangeman
Bellingham, WA
Matthew Tangeman   Bellingham, WA
Looks sweet. Know of any repeats or other routes on that side of Rexford? Aug 7, 2018

More About Common Knowledge (South Pillar of False Summit)

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