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Routes in Memorial Day Buttress
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Aggression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Casual n' Kind T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dave Anderson Memorial Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13 |
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Eyebrow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Graduate School T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High School Drop Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Judas Priest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Memorial Day Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mouth Variation, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pork Shoulder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Small Brain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tombstone Left T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tombstone Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m) |
| FA: | Bill Robins, Thomas Koch 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,256 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Winder on May 29, 2018 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Make a few easy but unprotected face moves off the belay ledge until good pro is reached at about 15 feet. Mantel a fun mini "roof" and head up and right following a crack feature to the first bolt. Continue up and right through a cool wavy section with sparse pro, gaining a flared handcrack above. When the crack disappears, slab up and right past 2 more bolts and get established in another flaring crack that is a bit steeper than the first.
The original finish seemed to go up and right above the final crack to a large tree. I found kitty litter and no protection that way so I went left instead, clipping a piton in a dihedral and moving straight left to a pine tree belay. Bolts on the route look like quarter inchers with SMC hangers. Walk off or rap with 2 ropes.
The original finish seemed to go up and right above the final crack to a large tree. I found kitty litter and no protection that way so I went left instead, clipping a piton in a dihedral and moving straight left to a pine tree belay. Bolts on the route look like quarter inchers with SMC hangers. Walk off or rap with 2 ropes.
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