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North Spire - SW Ridge

5.8+, Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.2 from 14 votes
FA: John Howe and Mike Down in the early 80s
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley > Western Chilliw… > Nesakwatch Spires

Description

Approach: From the basin walk over to the low 5th class chimneys either rope up there or scramble up to the base of P1.

P1 5.8ish: The obvious cracks containing a few fixed pieces including a fun rigid stem friend. Belay at the horizontal on the ledge.

P2 5.8: Traverse right along the ledge and up the short splitter finger crack, belay to the left before the left facing corner. Pitches 1 and 2 can probably be linked.

P3 5.8+: Drop down and climb the steep cracks until you can step right into the corner. Follow that up to a slab to either a wide 4”? flake, or a wide crack to its left. Belay either off the boulder horn or build an anchor in the corner.

P4 5.7ish: Scramble up to the splitter cracks, follow those and some slabby terrain up to the flat section of the ridge.

P5 4th ~100m: Simul or unrope and scramble to the base of the headwall cracks.

P6 5.8ish: Climb the perfect cracks up to more blocky terrain above, either build an anchor there or lower/down climb to the flat area below.

P7: low 5th loose blocks: carefully climb up the Jenga blocks to the summit.

Descent: The descent follows easy terrain down the standard S-ridge of the spire. In earlier season that route may be hazardous due to snow. There is a neglected rap route that weaves it's way down the south face which might be a better option conditions depending.

Protection

Rack: x2 BD.4-2, x1 3-4, Nuts, long slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is P3
[Hide Photo] This is P3
Last Scramble to the summit
[Hide Photo] Last Scramble to the summit
Descent at the col of North and South Spire
[Hide Photo] Descent at the col of North and South Spire
Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2
Pitch 4
[Hide Photo] Pitch 4
Start of the Climb
[Hide Photo] Start of the Climb
Pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1
P6 super fun 5.8 cracks
[Hide Photo] P6 super fun 5.8 cracks
"headwall" pitch visible from the ridge run
[Hide Photo] "headwall" pitch visible from the ridge run
P4 follows the splitter cracks to the left. Not the wide crack
[Hide Photo] P4 follows the splitter cracks to the left. Not the wide crack
P3 move left where the rope runs out of view.
[Hide Photo] P3 move left where the rope runs out of view.
The route follows the ridge.
[Hide Photo] The route follows the ridge.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Really nice route in a wonderful setting. However, some pointers I would have liked to know:
- Go right at the fork on the second pitch.
- "Scramble" at pitch 4 means 5.7/8 offwidth...
- Beware of the routefinding in the Jenga pitch, hard when no visibility.
- We were able to get water from melting snow in august. Sep 15, 2021