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Space Cowboy

5.12a, Sport, TR, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 15 votes
FA: Grahm Doe, Jeremy Ross Nov. 2010
California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 41: Fresno… > Shuteye Ridge > Big Sleep Area > Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Upper)

Description

Go up good holds to a lip. Above the lip is a hollow flake you pull on to reach either deep loose fingers right or a thin shallow crack (too shallow for my large fingers) above the hollow flake. This gets your fingers onto the broken out pancake flake which you work to get to another circular broken out pancake. Use this with no feet to get to a deep hand to arm jam for a rest in the gash in the wall. From here head right up a flake seam to the top.

Pat yourself on the back.

Can easily cheat using the offwidth corner to bypass some moves if you get stuck

Location

Bolt line on the beautiful orange dihedral

Protection

Six Bolts to chain anchor. Can set up anchor on top rope easily from Space Cadet.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route guide. Start might be a little further right, but the wall blocked the picture a little.
[Hide Photo] Route guide. Start might be a little further right, but the wall blocked the picture a little.