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Last Chance to Dance Trance

5.10a, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Jeremy Ross, Justin Ross, Cori Sutherland 2005
California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 41: Fresno… > Shuteye Ridge > Big Sleep Area > Eagles Nest > Eagle's Nest (Upper)

Description

Climb the stack and then teeter on a reach to climb first bolt. Climb the runnel, mostly staying on the right side. I did a combination side pull counter pressure technique to keep the left foot strong while inching up. Many small depressions for feet. Finish on a 5.fun ladder of knobs.

Location

From High Eagle Upper, tunnel through boulders to reach the base of a dark runnel to the right of a boulder stack.

Protection

3 bolts, one optional cam placement, 1-2 chicken heads. Rings on bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

5.fun knobs in upper section
[Hide Photo] 5.fun knobs in upper section
Tunneling to the base
[Hide Photo] Tunneling to the base
Hopping onto the route
[Hide Photo] Hopping onto the route
Climbing the stack.
[Hide Photo] Climbing the stack.
Clipping that first bolt. As viewed from left.
[Hide Photo] Clipping that first bolt. As viewed from left.
Super Fun
[Hide Photo] Super Fun

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brice Pollock
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Book says 10a, I felt like it was 5.8. May 29, 2018