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Routes in 8-Dostie

Affordable Care T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Central Fins - Left Corner S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Central Fins - Left Tower + Groove TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Central Fins - Right Wandering TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cohiba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connect High Chouinard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Connect Top Central Fins T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Guanobita T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hand Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Slab - Central TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Slab - Far Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Slab - Left Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Slab - Left Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Near Left Gully S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Right Flake TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: TR, 85 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 23 total · 23/month
Shared By: kenr on May 28, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Fun moves on positive holds all the way.
Unfortunately one sequence is significantly harder than the rest.

If set up an etrier or chain of slings hanging off a non-large cam in the groove / cracks just above the top of the tower (and use Variation 2 to reach top of tower), could make it a very fun 5.6 C0 route for less-strong climbers following or on top-rope.

Right up ramp a few feet than straight up to wide ledge.
. . . (Variation 1: easier but less interesting to go farther right).
Next aim for the obvious small tower. Start up its SW corner (with a thoughtful move perhaps 5.7), later onto its S face, and to standing on top.
. . . (Variation 2: around to the Left (N) side and up is easier 5.5 and also interesting).
From standing on top of tower, get onto the main cliff and get established in the obvious right-trending groove with cracks (crux).  All the way to the top of the groove, onto gentle slope with bushes and (loose?) rocks. Possible anchor above slightly left from to of groove, or angle up right to finish in an alcove under a small roof (which is directtly above the top of the route Central Fins - Left Corner.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for the climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location [Suggest Change]

In a shallow alcove around the corner Left from the 15-20 ft tall deep chimney capped by rock which is the start of the Central Fins Left Corner route.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection [Suggest Change]

Top anchor two bolts connected by cord, with ramshorn / pigstail lower-off.
. . . (bolts + upper hanger are 3/8-inch 304 Stainless. Lower hanger + ramshorn are 316 Stainless. Installed 2018.

No intermediate bolts for leading.

Top-Rope: The two-bolt top anchor is a short ways below left from the alcove with small roof which is the higher anchor for the route Central Fins - Left Corner. So could be reached by first Leading that (bolted) route. Or for other ideas on how to get access to top of this route to set up a top anchor, see the Area description page for this sector Dostie.

Lead: Protection for Trad leading is so far unknown - (though it would not be surprising if there are sufficient opportunities for Trad protection, but not checked by us).

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