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Routes in 8-Dostie

Affordable Care T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
CF Connect Left Upper Right S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
CF Left Ledge S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
CF Right Groove S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Central Fins - Left Corners S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Central Fins - Left Tower + Groove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Central Fins Wandering TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cohiba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connect High Chouinard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Connect Top Central Fins T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Guanobita T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hand Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Slab - Central TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Slab - Far Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Slab - Left Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Slab - Left Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Near Left Gully S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Right Flake TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Limbaugh Limbo TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right End Ledge S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Right Corner S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Right Exit S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Upper Right Face S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: TR, 85 ft
FA: Krystina Maixner
Page Views: 60 total · 21/month
Shared By: kenr on May 28, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fun moves on positive holds most of the way.
Difficulty is one grade harder if do not use the hidden hold at the crux -- and might be another trick -- (see beta in Comment below).

not a sport climb: Although there is a bolt plainly visible near the ground, and even a second bolt a bit higher, above that you're either placing a full range of Trad protection, or soloing.

directions: Start In a shallow alcove around the corner Left from the 15-20 ft tall deep chimney capped by a rock.
Diagonal up right on ramp to near the right edge corner of the face, then up onto wide platform.
. . . Variation 1 (more interesting + harder): A few feet up the ramp then go straight up face (just right of bolt) to reach wide platform.

Next aim up left for the obvious small tower. Start up its SW corner (with a thoughtful move 5.6 perhaps 5.7), later onto its South face, and to standing on top.
. . . Variation 2: Traversing around to the Left (N) side of tower and up is easier 5.5 and also interesting.

From standing on top of tower, get onto the main cliff and get established in the obvious right-trending groove with cracks (crux) - (beta in Comment below).  All the way to the top of the groove to reach two-bolt anchor.
. . . From here could angle right up gentle slope (loose rock?) to reach at an alcove under a small roof with two-bolt anchor on top (which is directtly above the top of the route Central Fins - Left Corner).

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Top anchor bolts installed and top-rope first ascent by Sharon + Ken Roberts

Location

In a shallow alcove around the corner Left from the 15-20 ft tall deep chimney capped by rock which is the start of the Central Fins Left Corner route.

- - > see L on this Photo

Protection

Lead: Single rack of cams using almost every piece from Camalot C3 #1 to Camalot C4 #3.
One bolt in lower part, just above first wide platform - (the climbing isn't so difficult, but would be a shame to take a ground-fall if a hold broke).
. . . Also one bolt for Variation 1.

Top anchor is two bolts connected by cord, with ramshorn lower-off.
. . . (bolts + upper hanger are 3/8-inch 304 Stainless. Lower hanger + ramshorn/pigstail are 316 Stainless. Installed 2018).

. . . (intermediate bolts + hangers for leading are all 304 Stainless. Instatled 2018).

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Top-Rope: The two-bolt top anchor is a short ways (with one bolt along the way) below left from the alcove with small roof which is the higher anchor for the route Central Fins - Left Corner. So could be reached by first Leading that (bolted) route. Or from some other top anchor of the "Central Fins" part or "Upper RIght" part, by reversing the route "CF Left Upper Right".

For other ideas on how to get access to top of this route to set up a top anchor, see the Area description page for this sector Dostie.

Photos

kenr
  5.7
kenr  
  5.7
- - | Beta | - -

For the move from the top of the tower into the bottom of the "groove", there is a positive handhold deep in the four-inch crack on the left side of the groove.

Further aid could be offered to a less-strong following climber by hanging an etrier / aid ladder or linked slings from a cam around size Camalot C4 0.75. After stepping up across, perhaps the follower could grasp one of the hanging loops to pull up through to get established in the groove, then enjoy the interesting moves above. Using this aid, perhaps this route could be rated 5.6 C0. Jul 24, 2018

More About Central Fins - Left Tower + Groove

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