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Routes in 8-Dostie

Affordable Care T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
CF Connect Left Upper Right S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
CF Left Ledge S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
CF Right Groove S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Central Fins - Left Corners S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Central Fins - Left Tower + Groove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Central Fins Wandering TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cohiba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connect High Chouinard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Connect Top Central Fins T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Guanobita T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hand Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Slab - Central TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Slab - Far Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Slab - Left Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Slab - Left Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Near Left Gully S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Right Flake TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Limbaugh Limbo TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right End Ledge S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Right Corner S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Right Exit S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Upper Right Face S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: TR, 100 ft
FA: TR Krystina Maixner
Page Views: 87 total · 22/month
Shared By: kenr on May 24, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Link-up of some interesting more diffficult sequences to go bottom to top on the right side of the Central Fins (CF) area.
. .  . (We can hope that another sequence will be added: see Project Variation below).

Start by climbing the route "Affordable Care", to reach a small tree on a block at its top.
Step Left across gully onto face below nose, and climb up through notch in nose. Then up and over another nose (crux).
. . . (This is roughly parallel close next to the route "CF Right Groove").

Next aim for the left side of the overhanging bulge, and join the route "CF Wandering" to finish up the face between the slanting roof on the left and the chimney on the right, finish to two-bolt anchor with lower-off.
. . . (or more "direct" and easier, could join the route "CF Right Groove" finish up wide chimney).

- - > Project ? Variation: ? Finish up the splitter crack through the center of the overhanging bulge.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for the climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Protection

Top anchor is two bolts connected by cord.
. . . Bolts and hangers are 304 Stainess steel. Installed 2018.

There is  a facultative bolt about 15-20 ft above this anchor. This bolt is about 25 ft up and 25 ft right from the upper anchor (on protruding rock over small alcove) of the route "CF Left Corner". If coming from that upper anchor, obvious way to set TR on this route is go up right on slippery dirty loose slope, then up on slopy rock, then traverse horizontal right to facultative bolt. Clip quickdraw to that, finally get lowered or belayed on down-climb to reach this Right anchor.

No intermediate bolts or other fixed hardware for Leading as of 2018.

Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Top-Rope: Two-bolt anchor near top of this route -- with facultative bolt above to help protect access to this anchor across top of wall after climbing another route nearby.

For ideas on how to get access to top of this route to set up a top anchor, see the Area description page for this sector Dostie.

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