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Routes in 8-Dostie

Affordable Care T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Central Fins - Left Corner S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Central Fins - Left Tower + Groove TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Central Fins - Right Wandering TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cohiba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connect High Chouinard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Connect Top Central Fins T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Guanobita T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hand Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Slab - Central TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Slab - Far Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Left Slab - Left Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Slab - Left Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Near Left Gully S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Slab - Right Flake TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: TR, 90 ft
FA: TR Krystina Maixner
Page Views: 38 total · 22/month
Shared By: kenr on May 24, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Lots of interesting moves (some strenuous) on big features of granite. Two cruxes, and some other thoughtful sections.

Start by doing the first pitch of the route "Affordable Care" up to a small tree on a block. Next step Left across gully onto face below nose, and climb up through notch in nose. Then up and over another nose. Next aim for the overhanging bulge, finish on wide crack (with some fun moves) up through its left side to reach two-bolt anchor.
. . . warning: possible loose block alongside final wide crack.

Variation Finish : (a bit harder) : Instead of finishing over the ovehanging bulge, trend Left toward under a right-slanting overhang. Next pass to the right of that, and left of the overhanging bulge with obvious crack up its center, up face to a (different from above) two-bolt anchor..

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for the climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Start by doing the first pitch of the route "Affordable Care".

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Two top anchors:  Right anchor (and one directional bolt) is for normal finish on crack up through the bulge. The Left anchor is for finishing up the face.
Both anchors are two bolts connected by cord. Lower hanger of the Left anchor had horizontal hole.
. . . Bolts and hangers are 304 Stainess, except lower hanger of Left anchor is Plated steel. Intalled 2018.

Left anchor has a facultative bolt about 4-5 ft above it. A long sling or etrier attached to this bolt makes it easier to reach down from ledge to attach climbing rope to the anchor set below edge of ledge. This facultative bolt is about 5 ft up and 15 ft right from the upper anchor (on protruding rock over small alcove) of route to left of this one. Getting to this facultative bolt from there requires getting up and across a slippery dirty loose slope.

Right anchor has a facultative bolt about 15-20 ft above. This bolt is about 25 ft up and 25 ft right from the upper anchor (on protruding rock over small alcove) of route to left of this one. If coming from that upper anchor, obvious way to set TR on this route is go up right on slippery dirty loose slope, then up on slopy rock, then traverse horizontal right to facultative bolt. Clip quickdraw to that, finally get lowered or belayed on down-climb to reach this Right anchor.

No intermediate fixed hardware for Leading as of 2018.

Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Top-Rope: Various possibilities to set up top anchor with Trad protection and/or natural protection and static line of long slings. But much loose rock near top of this route, so lIkely better to use a long static line (? more than 50 ft ?) to set the anchor higher above more of the loose rock.

For ideas on how to get access to top of this route to set up a top anchor, see the Area description page for this sector Dostie.

Photos

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