Type: Trad, TR, Aid, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 166 total · 11/month
Shared By: kenr on May 22, 2018
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


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Description

Lots of somewhat-thoughtful slab moves, with a crux at start of ridge section.

. . . The two pitches can be combined, but then if Top-Roping in the normal way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic rope, if the climber falls near the bottom, then due to rope stretch the fall could be longer or harder and the climber could be injured. So if trying it that way, likely better to instead use a static (or "semi-static") rope. Or at least keep the climber under tension while close to the bottom of the route.

P1: Start between big tree and left end of bench rocks, first up slopy rock directly to bottom of leff-facing inside corner (the corner of "The Inside Way"), which is about 25 ft left from obvious down-protruding nose.

Instead of going up the left side of that inside corner. go directly up the outside corner (which forms the edge between that corner and the steep step to the right of the obvious down-protruding nose) - just below right from a 3-inch thick tree -- up onto the slab which is above right from the left-facing inside corner.
Grabbing the tree for aid is OK.
. . (Without using the tree, this sequence is around 5.6+).
Next up along the left edge of the ridge. Find a sound tree for a belay anchor.

P2: Continue up along the along the left edge of the ridge.  A short flat section, then up the face above it (2nd crux) to finish roughly to the stump of big dead fallen pine tree on top platform. On this final face, keep hands and feet to the right of the continuous thin crack which is the logical upward extension of the inside corner - (avoid it because that continuous crark is part of "The Inside Way" route).

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

name? The north section of the land operated by the Smiley family has a hilltop with a winding carriage road (also used as a cross-country ski trail) designed to provide views (some with benches). The hilltop and carriage road are named "Guyot Hill".

Location

At base of non-steep rock slab, between big tree and left and of bench rocks, below the bottom of leff-facing inside corner (the corner of "The Inside Way"), which is about 25 ft left from obvious down-protruding nose..

- - > See on this Photo 
 
. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

Top-Rope: For ideas how to set up anchor for Top-Roping, see Description page for this sector Smiley Slopes.
 
warning: If belaying for Top-Roping in the usual way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic climbing rope could result in a long injurious fall if the climber hangs or falls in the lower part of this route (because of "rope stretch" on a route this long). Therefore consider instead use a static or semi-static rope (instead of normal dynamic rope), or belay from near the top of the route (instead of the bottom).

Lead: Decent spaced protection for a route of this difficulty, so if you fall you'll likely get hurt by hitting a ledge or protruding rock. Also some of the placements are of low or uncertain quality.

Trad rack with emphasis on small to large-ish stoppers, small cams. And some slings for trees.

Photos

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