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Routes in Parowan Gap

Cobble Stoned S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drill Dust in the Wind S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hello Hummingbird S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Matt's Bitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mouth Music S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pray to the Feather S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soaring Overhead S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, TR, 35 ft
FA: Karl Vochatzer
Page Views: 59 total · 11/month
Shared By: karl vochatzer on May 21, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Step up off the deck near the start of the corner crack trending slightly right to the first bolt, then slightly left into a shallow diagonal scoop to the second bolt. From there head straight up using mostly pockets to the smoother rock layer from the last bolt to the anchors.

Location

From the four original sport routes at the Parowan Gap crag, move left through the tunnel between the wall and the rock island then turn the corner to the right once you've emerged. Two new routes are located here on the face between the arete edge and the corner crack (which I believe is Draney's Sheeka 5.7 noted in Goss' book).

Protection

4 bolts with 2 single ring anchors

Photos

Jared Benson
Orem, UT
Jared Benson   Orem, UT
Climbed these over the long labor-day weekend. I am not sure if I missed an existing trail or not but the final approach after hiking up the wash is un-marked and brutally loose. The two climbs on this face made the hike worth the trip. we climbed in the later morning/early afternoon and the tunnel provided some welcome air conditioning on a great belay station. both climbs were really fun and end with a great view down the wash. I think 5.8 is accurate for "dust in the wind" but I wouldn't be surprised if "hummingbird" end up with a 5.9+ rating after some debate. Sep 4, 2018
karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
  5.8
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
  5.8
Thanks for commenting on the new routes, Jared, and glad you enjoyed climbing them. The trail is faint, at best. I doubt that the original developers of the crag had any consistent pathway to and from it. I first eyeball the crag while heading up the wash until I am completely east of it at the same level up the canyon, then cut across to the crag near it's base. I tried coming in from below it coming and going but did not like that option at all. I may have the chance to do some trail development and marking of it sometime in the future. Be sure to input your stars and grades to help build a consensus estimate. :) Sep 4, 2018

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