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> Cynthia's Boulder
Mattress
V9 YDS 7C Font
Avg: 3.5 from 10
votes
Routes in Cynthia's Boulder
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Cynthia's Problem V4 6B |
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Cynthia's Problem (Lip Traverse Variation) V3 6A |
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Eliminator V1 5 |
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Eliminator Variation V7 7A+ |
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Eliminator Variation Sit V9 7C |
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Head Left V8 7B |
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Head On V7 7A+ |
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Mattress V9 7C |
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Minch Wide Start, The V5 6C |
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Minch, The V6 7A |
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Mini-Bulge V3 6A |
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Mossy Caterpillar V2+ 5+ |
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Uno Equis V8-9 7B+ |
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| Type: | Boulder, 10 ft (3 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,788 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Patrick on May 21, 2018 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Spectacular movement on subtle, solid holds on a cool overhanging arete capped by an awesome technical dead point. Rock feels like Tiger Snake or Blindside. It is the best boulder in this main area.
Most people seem to start matched on the juggy brick, or with left hand on the pinch and right hand on the brick. For added difficulty, there are two more holds to the left, and if you start over there and climb into the brick, bonus points. :)
There are two variations for the crux (at least)
If you stay high, it is satisfyingly stiff for v9. I've heard a couple people say it could be in the solid 10 territory using the high approach.
If you stay low, you better be tall. I have a 6 foot span, and I can only barely reach between those low holds. The taller you are, the easier that low method is likely to feel.
Inaccurately given grade of v6 in the black. I talked to Mike Beck about it, and he says that that was a shot in the dark, not based on experience. Thanks Mike.
Old school classic!
Most people seem to start matched on the juggy brick, or with left hand on the pinch and right hand on the brick. For added difficulty, there are two more holds to the left, and if you start over there and climb into the brick, bonus points. :)
There are two variations for the crux (at least)
If you stay high, it is satisfyingly stiff for v9. I've heard a couple people say it could be in the solid 10 territory using the high approach.
If you stay low, you better be tall. I have a 6 foot span, and I can only barely reach between those low holds. The taller you are, the easier that low method is likely to feel.
Inaccurately given grade of v6 in the black. I talked to Mike Beck about it, and he says that that was a shot in the dark, not based on experience. Thanks Mike.
Old school classic!
Location
Pass the slightly overhanging crimp covered face, and pass into a corridor with some trees. Start sitting quite low on the left side of the left overhanging arete, hanging from the lowest flake that you can lay down into, then power up and right through a series of cool holds, and finish out on the face and up over the top.
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