Type: Boulder, 10 ft (3 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,690 total · 23/month
Shared By: Sean Patrick on May 21, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


10 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Spectacular movement on subtle, solid holds on a cool overhanging arete capped by an awesome technical dead point. Rock feels like Tiger Snake or Blindside. It is the best boulder in this main area.

Most people seem to start matched on the juggy brick, or with left hand on the pinch and right hand on the brick. For added difficulty, there are two more holds to the left, and if you start over there and climb into the brick, bonus points. :)

There are two variations for the crux (at least)
If you stay high, it is satisfyingly stiff for v9. I've heard a couple people say it could be in the solid 10 territory using the high approach.

If you stay low, you better be tall. I have a 6 foot span, and I can only barely reach between those low holds. The taller you are, the easier that low method is likely to feel.
 

Inaccurately given grade of v6 in the black. I talked to Mike Beck about it, and he says that that was a shot in the dark, not based on experience. Thanks Mike.

Old school classic!

Location Suggest change

Pass the slightly overhanging crimp covered face, and pass into a corridor with some trees. Start sitting quite low on the left side of the left overhanging arete, hanging from the lowest  flake that you can lay down into, then power up and right through a series of cool holds, and finish out on the face and up over the top. 

Protection Suggest change

Nice to have 2 pads

Photos

loading