PRINT: Rock Climb Too Rolling Stoned, Smith Rock

Too Rolling Stoned

5.11c, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 10 votes
FA: Chris Hatzai
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (w) The Marsupials > Koala Rock

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Start out climbing to the left of Ryan's Arete. Good holds run out suddenly leading up to the crux at perma-bolt 3. Work into the cryptic crux section and power your way to a good clipping hold at bolt 4. Enjoy the next 5 bolts of climbing on good crimps and jugs up to the first set of anchors.

Location

Route located to the left of Ryan’s Arete.

Protection

8 bolts, fixed steel anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

pocket move at end of crux

Crux

Too Rolling Stoned

Crux

Too Rolling Stoned

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous User

Great problem! Two problems to the left make this a great place to stack three 5.11 routes consecutively. Just beware of the crumbly skree approach and maybe bring a chair or added comfort.

Besides that, this problem starts out thuggy juggy fun. Crux may or may not be around the third bolt but don't sweat, there is a fixed QuickDraw. Continue up and around the roof for awesome views.
Then contemplate doing the last two bolts to the top for an extremely hard extension or just finish at the anchors above the roof. May 21, 2018

Quincy aka Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA

5.11c

The crux of this seemed so hard! I thought the crux was actually between the second and third bolt. After several falls using the wrong beta, I finally unlocked it and it became doable. Figure out which holds to use and body positioning to get to a stance on the popcorn hand ledge. Right after the third bolt permadraw, it's also physical and technical. Go for these reachy edges hand holds while edging feet high. I'm short and got to the big one a bit dynamically. The good hand holds don’t work well for feet. You need to do finger pocket pull-ups with some edging. I climbed this on TR using the Cool Air anchor to the left of the roof. Oct 29, 2018

Tyler Walcheff

Climbed this on 9/7/19. A hold broke just right of the permadraw and it may or may not be a letter grade harder as a consequence. Sep 9, 2019

Tom Bussell
portland, or

As of 2/19/22 there's no longer a fixed draw on this route. I only TR'd the route today, but the 3rd bolt would be very committing to reach without a fixed draw to clip before entering the crux sequence. The crux is cryptic for sure. Feb 19, 2022