Type: Trad, TR, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 800 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tim McGivern on May 19, 2018
Admins: Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Find the good crimps on the face to the right of Friends and Family. With a good, high left foot, navigate the crimpy face to a good incut, horizontal, crimp rail/seam. This is a pretty good stance to place a somewhat shitty nut in the pocket up and to the left of the good incut rail. Make a few really nice face moves to get into the big undercling above. Enjoy an easier topout! This is a bold lead indeed. It is R, since after the first nut, there is no gear until the undercling. A fall placing/clipping a piece at the undercling would be a groundfall.

The crux is getting to the incut seam. The upper moves into the undercling are precarious making this a bold lead and impressive/risky highball. I gave it a V4, since it is likely hard V3 moves in "do-not-fall" territory.

Location Suggest change

It is just to the right of Friends and Family.

Protection Suggest change

Get a somewhat decent nut (#3 BD) at the first stance, a bomber #0.75 BD Camalot works well in the undercling, and place one more small cam or nut after that to protect the topout. This could be done as a boulder highball. The landing area is terrible.

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