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5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British V4 YDS 6B Font R
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 800 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Tim McGivern on May 19, 2018 |
Admins: | Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
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Description
Find the good crimps on the face to the right of Friends and Family. With a good, high left foot, navigate the crimpy face to a good incut, horizontal, crimp rail/seam. This is a pretty good stance to place a somewhat shitty nut in the pocket up and to the left of the good incut rail. Make a few really nice face moves to get into the big undercling above. Enjoy an easier topout! This is a bold lead indeed. It is R, since after the first nut, there is no gear until the undercling. A fall placing/clipping a piece at the undercling would be a groundfall.
The crux is getting to the incut seam. The upper moves into the undercling are precarious making this a bold lead and impressive/risky highball. I gave it a V4, since it is likely hard V3 moves in "do-not-fall" territory.
The crux is getting to the incut seam. The upper moves into the undercling are precarious making this a bold lead and impressive/risky highball. I gave it a V4, since it is likely hard V3 moves in "do-not-fall" territory.
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