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Bullet Ant Mittens Ritual

5.12a, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 3 from 5 votes
FA: Andy Bennett, Luis Cisneros
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Farmhouse > 1 - The Gap > Mine the Gap
Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW ! Details

Description

Scramble up the chimney to a small ledge with anchors (~5.6). You can either belay from here or keep climbing, but you need to use this anchor to lower/clean this route. A 70mts rope DOES NOT suffice to get you to the ground from the top anchor. So please BE SAFE!

From the ledge, step on the left side into the chimney and be ready to pull on small sharp holds and tricky feet, and hope your mittens are ready... Great technical climbing takes you to awesome steepness and pump funk... Meander up to lower angle rock. It does get easier at the end, but not before it get harder.

Location

Left wall on the chimney

Protection

Bolts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon.R
Tucson, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] I wanted to chime in here since it's always a bit suspect when the only reviews of the route are from the first ascensionists. This is a worthy, full value adventure and felt similar to other long sport climbs at the reef, also developed by the same set of hooligans. We did this in one pitch from the ground and were able to lower to 5' up and an easy down climb with a full 70m (tie knots!).

I was happy to have a green totem (.5 or 0.75 would probably work too) as the rock leading up to the first set of anchors is only OK and it's quite a ways up to the ledge. A double length for the anchor is nice too. If you pull from the top anchors from the ground, walk up the hill a little ways and give the rope a good flick. We didn't and my partner (thx!) had to reclimb the approach pitch to retrieve the rope.

About halfway up, a crimpy traverse leads you left to the sketchy flake, and a welcome rest ,on La Guarita (visible from the ground). Although it's possible to climb up a little ways above the flake and then traverse back right to this climb, it's recommended to continue along the bolt line. This section looks impossible but is wayyyy easier than it looks. This is a way more enjoyable, albeit a little bit harder then escaping to the flake. All in all, the rock isn't nearly as sharp as the name would suggest, and the length of the line makes up for the two easier obvious weaknesses on either side of the climb. Stop reading comments on mountain project and climb! Apr 19, 2020