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Bullet Ant Mittens Ritual
Sport, 120 ft (36 m),
Avg: 3 from 5
FA: Andy Bennett, Luis Cisneros
> Southern Arizona
> 1 - The Gap
> Mine the Gap
Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW !
You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant so long as we don't disturb his land or his cattle. To keep a good relationship with him it is extremely important that climbers don't mess with grassing cattle, and that ALL GATES STAY AS THEY ARE FOUND. Also, the large gate on the north side of the parking area MUST NOT BE BLOCKED IN ANY WAY; the farmer regularly uses this gate as he drives a truck pulling a large trailer, so the road leading to said gate MUST STAY CLEAR by least 40 feet on all sides, including the road perpendicular to it (running east-west). If the parking area is full, drive past the bridge and park on the next pullout (not far), and NEVER BY THE GATE.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Scramble up the chimney to a small ledge with anchors (~5.6). You can either belay from here or keep climbing, but you need to use this anchor to lower/clean this route. A 70mts rope DOES NOT suffice to get you to the ground from the top anchor. So please BE SAFE!
From the ledge, step on the left side into the chimney and be ready to pull on small sharp holds and tricky feet, and hope your mittens are ready... Great technical climbing takes you to awesome steepness and pump funk... Meander up to lower angle rock. It does get easier at the end, but not before it get harder.