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Say Nothing

5.5, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
FA: Lee Hansche 5/18
New Hampshire > WM: Waterville… > Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 05. The Dark Passenger

Description

Here is another easy, well protected climb on immaculate rock. This one is actually super mellow after the first 20 ft but exactly what a beginner trad climber should be looking for.

Start as for Watching Me 5.7 and after clipping the first bolt on that route break right to a slightly lower angle slab and one more bolt. Follow the easy slab along a steep drop off to climbers right. Look for a solution pocket for protection (tri-cam perhaps) at the point when you can step right to a comfortable stance. From here pad up the slab trending toward a small tree that you may decide to sling for pro and then straight up through a sweet and all too short crack and finally the two bolt anchor.

Location

As you are getting to The Dark Side you will see the flake start of View Finder Just before you get to View Finder look for a cairn on your left, head up hill at the cairn and zig zag the path of least resistance looking right toward the rock and you should see the perfect slab through the trees. This climb and Watching Me share a start on the right side of the low point of the white slab.

Protection

2 bolts, regular rack, Tri-cam, to 2 ring-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down the "too short crack" from the anchor, don't get lulled into the line of bolts to the right up the bulge (viewfinder).
[Hide Photo] Looking down the "too short crack" from the anchor, don't get lulled into the line of bolts to the right up the bulge (viewfinder).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt H
 
[Hide Comment] Just a little more navigation help - this is up a bit of a hill and to the left of Viewfinder (which make a good navigation starting point for this part of the area). May 31, 2021