Type: Trad, Aid, 420 ft (127 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Montoya, Wolfe 05-18
Page Views: 709 total · 10/month
Shared By: Furthermore on May 15, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Description Suggest change

This is an adventurous summit route to the top of North Butte. Don't expect clean, Indian Creek style cracks on this climb as it has choss, soft rock, good rock, mud, and splitters. This climb NOT recommended for those seeking clean, aesthetic classic summit lines; however, it is recommended for those seeking solitude, adventure and some of most amazing scenery in Utah.

I do not recommend starting from the old yellow truck as that is a longer, steeper hike. Instead, park at the start of an old mining road leading up North Butte located at 38.6927, -110.9784 (~0.3-0.4 mile further up the road from the truck). Hike up the old mining road to the abandoned uranium mines on North Butte's southwest flank. From the mines, hike directly up talus to the base of North Butte's south-southwest face. Expect ~25-40 min hike.

Pitch 1 - 5.9, 100 feet. Locating the start of the climb can be difficult. Try to eyeball the large ledge where pitch 2 starts. Begin up the cleanest crack that leads to the base of the right side of the large ledge. Start the climb 20 feet  up a crack then traverse 8 feet left to another crack system that leads to the ledge. This second crack can also be climbed directly from the ground but appears to have more loose rock. Watch for loose rock near the top of the pitch. Belay off bolts.

Pitch 1.5 – Class 3 100 feet. From the bolts, scramble up the ledge (class 3) to the start of pitch 2 which has the obvious left facing dihedral.  

Pitch 2 – 5.11 C1 PG-13 140-150 feet.
Traverse right on technical face to the dihedral where small gear and RPs protect this poorly (5.10 PG-13). A large questionable large block (we yarded on it pretty hard) guards the final 5 feet to the dihedral. Continue up the dihedral with a very hard layback that has slick feet to a small ledge (5.11). Now for the worst 40 feet of the climb. Climb up a crack with loose rock, so be careful, and enter a mud veneered, slick chimney. Battle the awkwardness to a small roof (C1). We could not free this but it will likely free at 5.11-5.11+ slick mud.  Now that you're fully covered in slime, your reward is 50 feet of amazing hands to a bolted belay.

Pitch 3 – 5.10 C1 135 feet. From the belay, hard offwidth (C1 or 5.11-) leads to a a pod. Exit the pod through a roof and continue up the crack (5.10). Be careful of loose rock through this section. Near the top of the crack, veer right onto the face and climb below a large right facing dihedral to a bolted anchor.

From the bolted anchor, scramble to the tippy-top. The views are astonishing.

TWO ropes are required to rappel the route.
Rap 1: Rappel from the top of pitch 3 to the top of pitch 2 (~120 feet).
Rap 2: Rappel from the top of pitch 2 to the ledge (~140-150 feet).
Rap 3: Rappel from the anchors at the top of pitch 1 the ground (~100 feet).

Location Suggest change

Located on the south-southwest face of North Butte

Protection Suggest change

Nuts, RPs. BD C4 1X #0.2-0.4, 1X #6 (2X if aiding), 2X #4,5, 3X #0.5-0.75,2-3, 4X #1.
We didn't have a blue Big Bro but might recommend one for the start of pitch 3. The #6s were pretty tipped out.