Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Harrison Teuber
Page Views: 258 total · 28/month
Shared By: t.schwartz on May 14, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Steep and pumpy, with tricky gear! Harry spotted this line after he sent everything else at volunteer in his three week stint. This line starts off the Phantasm ledge and shares a body length or two at its crux; other than that it climbs completely new ground on the ever impressive West Wall. Start off the same ledge as Phantasm, instead of climbing the mellow finger/hand crack, step right to a large tooth feature and climb the steep direct broken crack system on large holds. The crux comes right before you join Phantasm and involves a thin tips layback to a steep thin hands pod. After you pull through the hand pod, fire the finger crack crux of Phantasm. Follow up the stem box until you reach the first bolt. Instead of clipping it, reach right around the corner and place a .2 or .3 with a runner. Step right onto a ledge below a thin tips corner. Follow this corner, encountering a tricky section right before it ends. Finish on easy, bubbly basalt.

Location

Same belay ledge of Phantasm.

Protection

2x .1 thru .5
1x #1 and #2
RPs
Runners

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Always meant to do the direct start of Phantasm but never did. Nice work Harrison! May 14, 2018