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Crack of Noon

5.9+, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Central Oregon > Shepard's Tower

Description

A gritty adventure on a proud line. Start from the brushy ledge in a wide splitter. Follow the intermittent hand and finger crack, past a few ancient pitons, occasionally climbing out right on the face. Glorious finish hiking straight up big horizontals.

Not sure the history on this one. Considering the rock I cleaned from the start, I doubt the full line had been climbed before and unlikely that it was done free back in the day.

Location

The tallest, downhill aspect of the tower, with a crack splitting the middle. Left of the sport routes.

Protection

Single set cams to #4, optional extra hand size pieces. A bolt anchor was added to the top of this route June 2020

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Crack of Noon
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Jason Magness
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Great route, gets better with cleaning. The air finish is easier than it looks and protectable in a few horizontals. Bomber placements throughout and a worthwhile climb in a spectacular setting. Jun 22, 2020