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Routes in Shepards Tower

Middle Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
South Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tetris S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
West Buttress T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 63 total · 52/month
Shared By: Kevin MP on May 13, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description [Suggest Change]

A gritty adventure on a proud line. Not sure if it's had previous free ascents, there were a couple very old pitons and lots of lichen. We started from the right on a flat ledge and climbed a mossy flake to reach the arête, then foot traverse left past the protruding block to reach the crack. Then follow the intermittent finger and hand crack, occasionally climbing out right on the face. Glorious finish straight up. A scrubbing and a direct start from base of the crack would greatly improve the quality of the line, but would involve some gardening.

Location [Suggest Change]

SW corner. The tallest, downhill aspect of the tower, with a crack splitting the middle.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Cams to #3, doubles in fingers/thin hands. Natural belay on large blocks on top or use the South Face anchors.


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