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Bears Ears
5.10d,
Sport, 85 ft (26 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 69
votes
FA: Glenn Ritter, Joi Matsukawa. April 2018
Utah
> Central Utah
> Maple Canyon
> Right Fork
> Zen Garden
Description
We originally thought this formation looked like Mickey Mouse Ears, but after all the national monument controversy we decided Bears Ears was more appropriate. A fun sport route past 13 glue-ins that should be a popular lead. Climb through the lower face to a no hands rest before the crux bulge up high. A few hard cranks past 3 bolts in the upper face will get you to the anchors. Pretty much follows the black streak up the middle of the formation the whole way. 60m rope.
Location
This route is included in the Zen Garden section, but is actually on the front face of the Zen formation before you get to the Zen Garden wall itself. The Zen Garden is around the corner to the left.
After passing the Minimum crag, head towards Zen Garden but look for a short 20' approach trail that leads to the base of this route. The Bears Ears formation is easily identifiable on the main trail and the route climbs more-or-less up the black streak between the "ears."
Protection
13 bolts, chains with steel biners
[Hide Photo] Overview Map of the central part of the Right Fork. Bears Ears is shown in the middle/left of the map.
[Hide Photo] Bears Ears follows the black stain on the wall around the corner from the other climbs in Zen Garden. Super fun route.
[Hide Photo] Bears Ears. The fixed line used for bolting still hangs from the route in this photo.
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