Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Bears Ears

5.10d, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 69 votes
FA: Glenn Ritter, Joi Matsukawa. April 2018
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Right Fork > Zen Garden

Description

We originally thought this formation looked like Mickey Mouse Ears, but after all the national monument controversy we decided Bears Ears was more appropriate.    A fun sport route past 13 glue-ins that should be a popular lead.   Climb through the lower face to a no hands rest before the crux bulge up high.  A few hard cranks past 3 bolts in the upper face will get you to the anchors.  Pretty much follows the black streak up the middle of the formation the whole way. 60m rope.

Location

This route is included in the Zen Garden section, but is actually on the front face of the Zen formation before you get to the Zen Garden wall itself.  The Zen Garden is around the corner to the left.  

After passing the Minimum crag, head towards Zen Garden but look for a short 20' approach trail that leads to the base of this route.   The Bears Ears formation is easily identifiable on the main trail and the route climbs more-or-less up the black streak between the "ears."

Protection

13 bolts, chains with steel biners

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview Map of the central part of the Right Fork.  Bears Ears is shown in the middle/left of the map.
[Hide Photo] Overview Map of the central part of the Right Fork. Bears Ears is shown in the middle/left of the map.
Bears Ears follows the black stain on the wall around the corner from the other climbs in Zen Garden. Super fun route.
[Hide Photo] Bears Ears follows the black stain on the wall around the corner from the other climbs in Zen Garden. Super fun route.
Bears Ears.  The fixed line used for bolting still hangs from the route in this photo.
[Hide Photo] Bears Ears. The fixed line used for bolting still hangs from the route in this photo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

TS Burton
Ogden, Utah
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Destined to be a classic. Jun 6, 2018
Eric Danner
The People's Republic of Bo…
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This route is great! I would say it is easier than some of the 11a's in the canyon. 10d seems right to me. Good route to jump on if you are looking for sun while everything else warms up. Oct 14, 2018
Jonathon Kr
Charleston, SC
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Very fun route. The only tricky part was getting over the bulge after the ledge. I would agree with 5.10d. Thanks for putting it up! Jun 23, 2019
[Hide Comment] A 52m rope gets you down. 51m would be relying on stretch. May 26, 2020