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Sargents Ridge
4th YDS 1 French 2 Ewbanks I UIAA 2 ZA M 1b British Mod. Snow PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Mt. Shasta
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Avalanche Gulch Mod. Snow |
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Hotlum Glacier Route AI1-2 Steep Snow |
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Hotlum-Bolam Ridge AI1-2 |
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Hotlum-Wintun Ridge Mod. Snow |
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Red Banks Couloir WI3-4 PG13 |
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Sargents Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow PG13 |
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West Face Gully Mod. Snow |
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Whitney Icefall aka Shastice Park AI3-4 |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3029 ft (918 m), Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,895 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Harvest Mondello on May 6, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Route
The climb begins at Shastarama Point (11,150). Stay on the ridge proper and traverse to the climbers right (West) anytime there's obstacles. Continue until Green Butte ridge intersects Sargent's Ridge at 11,800.
At 11,900 is the first crux. Traverse right (East) along steep slopes. Until you regain the ridge at 12,300.
From here you have 4 options:
From here you intersect the Standard Route at the top of Avalanche Gulch. Be aware of bergunds above Thumb Rock.
Continue on to Misery Hill (13,800) and then along the summit area to the true summit pinnacle at 14,180.
Descend via Avalanche Gulch to Bunny Flats or Avalanche Gulch to Old Skibowl via a crossing of Green Butte.
At 11,900 is the first crux. Traverse right (East) along steep slopes. Until you regain the ridge at 12,300.
From here you have 4 options:
- The Standard option is to down climb to below the rock bands on the climbers Left to the West. Follow moderate snow slopes above Avalanche Gulch. There's no cruxes here. This is the recommended option for all but the most advanced climbing parties. The other options are very condition dependent. II, Moderate Snow.
- Continue into rock bands (class 3 and class 4 mixed rock covered in snow/rime) to the climbers left (West) of the ridge proper. Significant routefinding. III, Class 4, Moderate Snow.
- Traverse along the Eastern slopes of Sargent's Ridge. This involves steep snow and class 4 rock bands that can be traversed around by staying below on the snow. Snow pro or two tools is highly recommended. This option requires exposed traversing on East Facing snow slopes. III, Class 4, Moderate+ Snow, PG 13
- Stay on the ridge proper and climb on pinnacles and other obstacles. This is class 5 climbing on mixed terrain. Use pro that does well in snow/ice covered rock. IV, Class 5, mixed, PG 13 to R depending on conditions.
From here you intersect the Standard Route at the top of Avalanche Gulch. Be aware of bergunds above Thumb Rock.
Continue on to Misery Hill (13,800) and then along the summit area to the true summit pinnacle at 14,180.
Descend via Avalanche Gulch to Bunny Flats or Avalanche Gulch to Old Skibowl via a crossing of Green Butte.
Approach
Approach: When the road is snow free the approach begins at Old Skibowl Trailhead (7,840) at the base of the ridge. Gain the ridge right away.
The winter approach is from Bunny Flats snow park (6,950). This is an extra three miles including two on the road and one going cross country. Gain the ridge when you see a low mellow notch in the ridge.
Continue on the ridge proper, traversing to the climbers left (West) when there are obstacles.
When you reach Shastarama Point (11,150) you've completed the approach. There's a bivy spot here that will fit a 4 person tent.
There is also a semi-protected bivvy on the ridge that will fit a small 2 person tent at (41.38691, -122.19736).
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