Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Pat Callis, Gerry Honey, 1959|
|Page Views:||1,355 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Adam Oliver on May 5, 2018|
|Admins:||Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball|
P1: 5.7 climb up the mossy ramp and place a bomber #3 cam just above the old bolt (don't clip the mank). Traverse right to point where you really wish you could clip a bolt, look over a bulge to find a shiny bolt buried in moss. Clip it with an extended sling and wander your wander you way up the mossy slab through the path of least resistance unearthing shiny bolts that were buried in moss till you get to the base of a low angle diherdal. Clip the final bolt to the anchors and pull the 5.7 crux to find the most beautiful rap anchor ever. 7 bolts 130' Note: it's best to extend all draws or else you will be killed with rope drag at the crux.
P2: 5.5 From the anchor veer slightly up and make hard right around the corner till you get to the first bolt. Clip it and climb an easy slab to the next anchor. This anchor isn't as beautiful as the last but still looked bomber IMO. 2 bolts 65''
P3: 5.4 From the belay head up and right into the dirty chimney, spelunk your way through an opening and finish the route as per Regular north face or belay from an eye bolt then finish via regular north face.
*Disclaimer* I have yet to finish the final pitch. My Partner and I had to bail due to daylight issues. By most peoples standards this route would warrant an R rating but if you have climbed other routes in the area this route is actually quite safe by comparison.