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Routes in Rooster Rock

Callis Southeast face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Jam Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Regular North Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Pat Callis, Gerry Honey, 1959
Page Views: 56 total · 56/month
Shared By: Adam Oliver on May 5, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description [Edit]

This route is a totally worthwhile jaunt if you enjoy adventure climbing and can stand climbing on moss. the First 2 pitches can be lead solely on bolts if you want. All of the anchors were replaced by Tyler Adams and Jim Anglin in 2007. If you've climbed old school friction slab than this route is by no means runout but otherwise expect some healthy bolt spacing on the mossy slabs.

P1: 5.7 climb up the mossy ramp and place a bomber #3 cam just above the old bolt (don't clip the mank). Traverse right to point where you really wish you could clip a bolt, look over a bulge to find a shiny bolt buried in moss. Clip it with an extended sling and wander your wander you way up the mossy slab through the path of least resistance unearthing shiny bolts that were buried in moss till you get to the base of a low angle diherdal. Clip the final bolt to the anchors and pull the 5.7 crux to find the most beautiful rap anchor ever. 7 bolts 130' Note: it's best to extend all draws or else you will be killed with rope drag at the crux.

P2: 5.5 From the anchor veer slightly up and make hard right around the corner till you get to the first bolt. Clip it and climb an easy slab to the next anchor. This anchor isn't as beautiful as the last but still looked bomber IMO. 2 bolts 65''

P3: 5.4 From the belay head up and right into the dirty chimney, spelunk your way through an opening and finish the route as per Regular north face or belay from an eye bolt then finish via regular north face.

*Disclaimer* I have yet to finish the final pitch. My Partner and I had to bail due to daylight issues. By most peoples standards this route would warrant an R rating but if you have climbed other routes in the area this route is actually quite safe by comparison.

Location [Edit]

Southeast face of the bird. The start is relatively easy to spot; look for an old bolt about 20-ish feet up a mossy ramp

Protection [Edit]

SR to 4'' , nuts, and alpine draws. Also a wire brush.

Photos

Adam Oliver
Corvallis Or
  5.7
Adam Oliver   Corvallis Or
  5.7
Here's more beta for this historical and classic route summitpost.org/callis-se-fa… May 5, 2018

More About The Callis Southeast face

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