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East Chimney
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British Easy Snow
Avg: 3 from 2
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Routes in Mount Sneffels
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Direct North Rib T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow |
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North Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Snake (Dogleg) Couloir T Steep Snow |
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Southwest Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 2 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 38.0033, -107.792 |
| FA: | Steven Van Sickle, Lucas Carrion June 2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,590 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Van Sickle on May 5, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a high quality variantion to the North Rib. The first real pitch of climbing is a fun, clean, and well-protected chimney. The second pitch was also good climbing though a bit nebulous. Once you reach the top of the ridge (about halfway up the North Rib), it is about 1500 feet of easy fifth class to the summit.
Location
This route begins about halfway down the Chossmaster Couloir on the skier's left side. The chimney is a somewhat obvious gash in the North Rib. Pitch one begins with some face climbing to get into the chimney. Climb the chimney to the top exit left on good holds to a nice belay ledge. From this ledge, we traversed to the left and then wandered up to the top of the ridge (rope drag). Follow north rib beta to the summit.
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