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Hot Fuzz

5.8, Sport, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 1.9 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Bow Valley > Kanga Creek South

Description

Pitch 1: Slab climbing on sticky limestone diagonally to the left, with a short 3 m traverse to the hidden anchor on loose flakes;
Pitch 2: Stemming in gullies and climbing an arete to an anchor.

Descent: Rappel from 2nd pitch to 1st pitch anchor, and then fall line to an anchor 15 m above the ground. Some potential for rockfall and stuck ropes.

Location

Park as for Grassi then walk up road a bit and turn right up scree slope before 35km/hr sign. On the left side of the big roof

Protection

Pitch 1: 11 bolts
Pitch 2: 10 bolts
Gear: 12 quick draws, 70 m rope. All anchors bolted with rap rings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

American climbing legends John Bouchard and Nancy Bouchard. Taken from Sharknado
[Hide Photo] American climbing legends John Bouchard and Nancy Bouchard. Taken from Sharknado
Traverse to the first anchor
[Hide Photo] Traverse to the first anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

FosterK
Edmonton, AB
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Climbed this after a rain storm in the evening. Fun slab moves (if you're into that) into a good set of stems and arrete climbing. A good climb to link with Sharknado, and Godzilla for a day. Relatively clean of loose rock except for the last moves to the 1st belay and the last rappel.

More descriptions here by the route developer:
gripped.com/routes/hot-fuzz… Jul 15, 2019
DaveTO
Squamish, B.C.
[Hide Comment] Agree with FosterK. Do all three routes in a day. Did this route in two pitches but was able to lower in one long rap with a set of 70m doubles. Fun first and second pitch. No route beta yet on Godzilla (far left 4p sport route). I'll add here that it is much more loose than Sharknado and Hot Fuzz. Pulling ropes is exciting. Aug 5, 2019