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Unknown Wide Crack

5.8 PG13, Trad, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Palomas Peak > (09) The Far Side II

Description

Basically an exercise in technique to just stay in the crack, as one could also ascend this probably just using face holds. 20 or so feet of excellent squeezing (if you're a slender fellow) and then you round the chock stone and the fun (or punishment) is pretty much over. Traverse left at the top to use the webbing to rap off the tree. The squeeze is pretty much unprotected, unless perhaps if you carry blue big bros. Some imagination may yield better placements by the chock stone. Smaller gear (#2 or #3) protects the short traverse to the tree. Will update info as needed, as I know nothing about this route besides how it climbs. Would get more stars if it were longer, but if you like wide, it's a fun little stop at the crag. 

Location

Big wide sucker just before you get to the published routes at Far Side II. There is a line just left of this with two bolts down low and nothing up high (gear?). There is a tree right across from the crack before you step down and continue around the corner to published routes.

Protection

Mostly cams, some big some small. Some may feel the PG13 rating unnecessary. Even if you lack the big stuff, it's hard to fall out of the squeeze. Traverse out left to tree with red webbing to rap/lower.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Enter the black void to the right of the steep slab.
[Hide Photo] Enter the black void to the right of the steep slab.