Type: Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Richard Malone and Aaron Geller
Page Views: 820 total · 24/month
Shared By: Andrew Ellis on Apr 30, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020 Details
Access Issue: On US Forest Service Land. Please contact land managers before bolting. Details

Description

Great exposure! First pitch is about 160 or 170 feet of full value climbing, and includes the crux sequences. Second pitch is about 40 feet of quality 5.8 climbing on bomber rock and ends at your choice of two anchors. The higher one offers a pretty decent belay stance.

This is the first route you see as you make your way up to the spire. It starts at the very base of the spire on the East side as you hike up from the pullout. See photos for info.

Do as a lead/follow. I have been told that it can be done in a single pitch on a 70 meter rope, with the second following through. We did it on a 60, and used the mid point anchor. Bring an extra rope to rappel from two that are tied together. The rappel drops you off of the north side of the spire, about 50 feet downhill of Lichen Adventure.

This route will be used in the future to access other portions of the spire and to start installing more routes.

Location

The very first sport route you encounter on the spire when you hike up from the pullout.

Protection

Bolts. Bolted anchors. Bring lots of quickdraws an extra rope to rappel from two that are tied together.

Photos