Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Jordan Weiler
Page Views: 466 total · 54/month
Shared By: Jordan Weiler on Apr 30, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This has edgy face climbing with fun moves. The crux is definitely the 1st 20-25 feet. There are very key gear placements, but all the gear stances are really good.

Location

This the 1st climb you hit on this wall, and there is a tree to the right of this climb about halfway up the route. Start on crimps, and move left into the weakness.

Protection

BD C3s up to #0.75 and one #3 (currently no bolted anchor, but I will be fixing that within the month).

Photos

Tim Matthews
Durango, CO
  5.9+
Tim Matthews   Durango, CO
  5.9+
I helped Jordan put this one up. Grade feels either 9 or easy 10. The trick is definitely getting the first 2 pieces of protection in. Looking forward to seeing more climbing on this excellent wall! May 1, 2018
Autumn Leigh
  5.10a/b
Autumn Leigh  
  5.10a/b
Super fun route. Took the first whipper on it (using Jordan's preplaced gear). I would say more of a 10. Tricky moves, but once you find the holds, it's smooth sailing. Got some crimps. Definitely a must-try if you're in the area!! May 3, 2018
Jordan Weiler
Durango
  5.9
Jordan Weiler   Durango
  5.9
This is the 1st route I've ever put up. Please let me know what you think the grade is. May 3, 2018
I would be surprised if you guys were the first to climb this. There has been a lot more climbing action up in Vallecito than most would think. So, I would do a bit more homework before making any FA claims. Nice to see folks up there climbing though, it's for sure my favorite spot to climb in Durango. Dec 18, 2018
Nolan Robertson
Durango, CO
Nolan Robertson   Durango, CO
Actually Will, I believe John Duran did this barefoot, free solo to train for golden arms. The sharp crimps helped build callus on his toes in order to provide the sticky skin for the first ascent. Dec 18, 2018
Jordan Weiler
Durango
  5.9
Jordan Weiler   Durango
  5.9
I am unaware of anyone climbing this before. I have talked to many of the older local climbers to see if anyone knew of this line being established. So, I don't know how else I can "do my homework". I did a lot of work cleaning off loose rock and cleaning out gear placements. If anyone knows for a fact that this line was done, I'm more than happy to give credit were credit is do. Dec 18, 2018