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Routes in Ronald's Chasm

Art Isn't Real V7 7A+
Balance V-easy 3
Caravan Palace V5 6C PG13
Death In the Afternoon V6 7A R
Direct Rice for Long Men V3 6A
Don't Fall V1-2 5
Fire Walk With Me V8 7B PG13
Lily of the Valley V4-5 6B+
Long Grain Rice, FOR MEN! V4 6B
Orb, The V4-5 6B+
Ronnie's V4-5 6B+
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Type: Boulder
FA: Jake Croft
Page Views: 63 total · 18/month
Shared By: Jake Croft on Apr 30, 2018
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A beautiful, colorful arete with a horrific landing.  Though it is not a tall climb, if you fell you would probably bounce off the uneven rock underneath it and tumble down the hill into the bushes... Let's not find out.

The movement is technical, the rock quality pristine, and the holds interesting.  Start sitting on the rock in the landing, feet down low.  I started gaston-ing the arete with my right hand, left a bit higher up on a really cool pinch with a good thumb catch.  Move up through crimps, a nice orange slot, and a sloper on the right, an awesome slopey rail, slapping your left up the awesome sloper rail on the left.  Heelhooks definitely, some fancy knee scumming made it feel more secure for me.

I would recommend putting a rope over it before going for it, theres a tree you can sling and then a sketchy flaring crack over right you can fill with cams and nuts to keep the rope from rolling off the side.  I tried to brush all the lichen I could and clean of any loose holds (there were very few) but some of the crystals on the left of the arete should probably be whacked before going to it, I probably missed a few.

Location

Up the hill from the assassin's cradle, on the downhill side of one of the two boulders that makes the chasm.  The line's pretty obvious, if you see it, you'll know

Protection

A lot of pads, but probably just don't fall, maybe some crutches on the sideline

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Jake Croft
Tucson, Az
  V6 R
Jake Croft   Tucson, Az
  V6 R
Maybe a bit presumptuous to give my own route 4 stars... but I really do think it's worthy. Awesome holds, obvious striking line. The landing may take away for some but an element of spice really solidifies the 4th star for me. Apr 30, 2018
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Nice work, Jake. This looks like an inspiring line! I think giving your own route four stars just shows that you were psyched on the climb. May 1, 2018
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Bad landings probably don't add a star for most people Jake, glad you made it clear that it does for you at least on this problem. Congratulations on this line and all the other you and the gang have found. Nice to see you all so psyched. May 1, 2018

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