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Routes in Lower Tier

Bleeding Heart T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bobbing For Frogs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Scratch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flirtin' With Disaster T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuzz Fire Insurance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Wing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
New Kid in Town T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Struggle Bus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Too Short To Start T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown face climb 2 T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Keith Wood
Page Views: 91 total · 16/month
Shared By: Mike Reardon on Apr 30, 2018
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Thin crack. A neat lie back move or two. We have dusted it off a bit but it may need more. 

Location

Walk through Tunnel, then follow base downhill, then back uphill. This route is an obvious weakness to a ledge. In 2017, the Carolina Climbers Coalition conducted a cliff biological survey (this was one of the requirements to have legal climbing access expanded within Chimney Rock State Park). During the survey, we found a patch of Granite Dome Goldenrod under the anchors, where you would rap. We moved the anchor further up and left for this reason. They are easy to reach once you hit the ledge and can serve as a belay point for second pitch routes leaving from the Fuzz Ledge. 

Protection

gear, some small nuts, anchors up and left

Photos

Tristan Pease
Wilmington, NC
  5.9- PG13
Tristan Pease   Wilmington, NC
  5.9- PG13
be sure to clip in a directional at the top out to keep your rope clear of the protected plants 6 days ago

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