Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: To Be Claimed!
Page Views: 162 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Apr 29, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Sit start with the left-hand in an incut crack on the steep overhang, and the right hand on a flat sloper on the arete. Pull onto the wall and make a hard right-hand move up the arete to a decent pinch with a good pocket thumb catch. Squeeze hard and get some higher feet before figuring out how to snag one of the sharp crimps on the roof with the left-hand. After the left-hand move to the crimp, make another powerful right-hand move up the arete. From here, reach for the jug lip with either hand and core up to prevent the almost inevitable dab.

A jump start from low under the roof with the pocket right-hand pinch to the lip jug has been done without dabbing the rock behind somehow. This leads me to believe that skipping the sharp left-hand crimps on the roof is potentially a possibility for a monster with incredible power and pinch strength and some serious core.

Location

Start under the obvious lowball roof, on obvious holds.

Protection

3 pads. Bring a thin one or potentially ditch one of them depending on your beta.

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