Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Rick Fairtrace, Cal Swoager 1985
Page Views: 372 total · 9/month
Shared By: Budman252 on Apr 25, 2018
Admins: Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

Squirm and squiggle up the prominent wide crack in the corner to a sling anchor under the roof.  Check the anchor before committing to it -- it's looking a bit aged.

Variation: From the anchor, it is possible to traverse right (5.10b R) to finish up the 5.11b roof crack of Childbirth.  This was climbed by Andrew Barry in 1985.

Location

Continue past Zealous downstream, past a shed-sized boulder, around a buttress, under some roofs, to a capped alcove corner. Squids in Bondage is the obvious corner crack with a steep, thrutchy start. 

Protection

Gear up to wide hands. The sling anchor off of fixed gear at the top of the route stays in pretty good shape due to ample shade and the cap roof, but take care to inspect and replace it all the same.

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