PRINT: Rock Climb March of the Gummi Bears, Little Cottonwood Canyon

March of the Gummi Bears

5.10b, Trad, 105 ft (32 m),

Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Mike and John Hansen 1995
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Altered States Gully

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

This is a fun and overlooked route that is reasonably safe. The crux is very well protected with modern bolts. Begin in the low angle broken crack where Magic Circus, Proscenium, and March of the Gumby Bears all begin. Protect traditionally until at about 30 feet where new bolts show up when the the difficultly increases. This is the crux- stemming up this delicate corner/ bulge. I think 10d feels fair, but the FA says 10b. Once through this section, latch the chickenhead out right, manyle on top of it, and traverse improbably right about 10 feet to climb the middle of the slab to the top. These traverse moves are very memorable. A couple more 5.10 cruxes give way to easier climbing on slightly grainy orange patina. A crack is found at the top that takes a key #2 camalot in a square pod. Now continue to the bolted anchors that need chain (currently webbing equalized) and share the finish with all 7!!! routes in this area.

Location

In the Altered States Gully proper east side wall. Look for the obvious low angle crack that joins the right facing corner with bolts about 30 feet up.

Protection

Single rack of cams fingers to 2 camalot. Save the 2 camalot for the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alec L

I ended up backing off of this yesterday after jumping on it with no beta. I assumed the line just continued up the dihedral past the bolted crux but the gear options looked, well, sparse-to-nonexistent and it didn't seem at all logical to just cut right at that point and go up what looked like a different route.

I would agree with Brad that the crux seems a bit stout for 10b, but, I suppose this is Little Cottonwood.

Glad I didn't just soldier up the dihedral / seam! Anybody know if this has been climbed? Jun 17, 2019

Past User

5.10b

Alec- check out the comments for Magic Circus for some more murky clarity. Jun 19, 2019