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North Gaulton Castle
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Orkney Islands.. and the Old Man of Hoy
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North Gaulton Castle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Old Man of Hoy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Yesnaby Castle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | 1970 |
| Page Views: | 5,435 total · 82/month |
| Shared By: | El Duderino on Apr 21, 2018 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
North Gaulton castle is a sea stack found in a lonely part of Orkney's west mainland, situated roughly half way between Outertown in Stromness and the car park at Yesnaby.
The stack is very much the big brother of Yesnaby Castle, as they are both of similar dimensions and composition and both are set in an amphitheatre of cliffs which guard against any approach. However, North Gaulton is almost twice the size of Yesnaby Castle.
The stack is very much the big brother of Yesnaby Castle, as they are both of similar dimensions and composition and both are set in an amphitheatre of cliffs which guard against any approach. However, North Gaulton is almost twice the size of Yesnaby Castle.
Location
The most convenient approach is from Mousland Farm, (GR HY 229128) follow the signs for Birsay as you leave Stromness then take the Cauldhame road (sign posted) to Mousland farm. From here it is about a mile walk across open fields to the cliffs that guard the stack.
The easiest way to the base of the stack is undoubtedly by boat. But for those of a more adventurous nature, abseil to the sea level platforms at the base of the cliffs to the south of the bay. From here it is a 40 metre swim to the wave washed platforms at the base of the landward end of the stack. Originally access to the stack was by a massive Tyrolean traverse, roped between the headlands to the north and south of the stack (a distance of 200m). With rope stretch this gave access to the big ledge at the top of the first pitch.
The easiest way to the base of the stack is undoubtedly by boat. But for those of a more adventurous nature, abseil to the sea level platforms at the base of the cliffs to the south of the bay. From here it is a 40 metre swim to the wave washed platforms at the base of the landward end of the stack. Originally access to the stack was by a massive Tyrolean traverse, roped between the headlands to the north and south of the stack (a distance of 200m). With rope stretch this gave access to the big ledge at the top of the first pitch.
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