Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
The Brave Little Toaster
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British C1
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Tiki Tower
|
|
Brave Little Toaster, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Jeff Widen, Mitch Allen, Fred Lifton, Paul Frank, November 1991 |
| Page Views: | 1,110 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Neil Kauffman on Apr 20, 2018 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is a cool climb to an awesome summit! There's some soft rock, but overall it's good quality for a tower. It might even go free if the bolt ladder is unlocked. Pitches 1 & 2 were aided on lead and freed on top-rope.
Pitch 1: Climb easy broken rock to the right-angling finger/thin hands flared splitter. Pull the 5.11 crux on good rock and finish on 5.9 soft rock to a two drilled pin anchor at the saddle.
Pitch 2: Traverse left to a drilled pin and tension off or downclimb left to the major corner system on the West face. Nice 5.11 climbing in the corner from thin fingers to slabby OW on good rock to three drilled pin anchor.
Pitch 3: Climb right and around the corner to reach the bolt ladder on the south and east face. Three drilled pins on top. 5.8 A0 Might go free, the rock is a little soft.
Rap once from the summit to the saddle, then again to the ground with a 70m rope. Bring a decent bit of cord to backup anchors.
This climb is listed in Cameron Burns' Select Climbs of the Desert Southwest.
Pitch 1: Climb easy broken rock to the right-angling finger/thin hands flared splitter. Pull the 5.11 crux on good rock and finish on 5.9 soft rock to a two drilled pin anchor at the saddle.
Pitch 2: Traverse left to a drilled pin and tension off or downclimb left to the major corner system on the West face. Nice 5.11 climbing in the corner from thin fingers to slabby OW on good rock to three drilled pin anchor.
Pitch 3: Climb right and around the corner to reach the bolt ladder on the south and east face. Three drilled pins on top. 5.8 A0 Might go free, the rock is a little soft.
Rap once from the summit to the saddle, then again to the ground with a 70m rope. Bring a decent bit of cord to backup anchors.
This climb is listed in Cameron Burns' Select Climbs of the Desert Southwest.
9 Comments