Type: Sport, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 11 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 840 total · 16/month
Shared By: Tyler Nachand on Apr 20, 2018
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

Fun, alpine sport multipitch on solid to decent to poor quality sandstone. Pitch 7 is the crux, with unfortunately poor quality rock making it difficult to pull thru the overhanging sequence without breaking off holds. The 5th and 11th pitch, both 10d, are super enjoyable pitches. Grade is a bit soft for some of the pitches. Pitches 8 and 9 are both rated 5.9R due to runout and poor quality rock. Look closely for the bolt line on pitch 9 cause this one is a bit windy. Pitch 10 10c is also extremely runout but over fairly easy climbing. 4-5 bolts I think for aprox. 45m pitch.

Aprox:Pitch 1 - 10d 45mPitch 2 -10c 40m
Pitch 3 - 10b 40m
Pitch 4 - 5.9 50m
Pitch 5 - 10d 20m
Pitch 6 - 10b 30m
Pitch 7 - 11c 45m
Pitch 8 - 5.9R 50m
Pitch 9 - 5.9R 50m
Pitch 10 - 10cR 50m
Pitch 11 - 10d 50m

Double rope raps are a must seeing as some of the pitches are 50m. Do two long double rope raps along the expansive arete then a third rap diagonally climbers right to meet up with pitch 8 anchors.

Location

Same approach as Los Miserables but break climbers left at the base of the cliff and look for a well bolted line in a sort of alcove along the cliffline. Make sure you look for a well bolted line because there is another route farther left of Maletin de Gasfiter with runout bolts. 

Protection

Bolts and bolted anchors. Bring 22+ quickdraws/longdraws and runners. Bolts and anchors in good condition as of March 2018. Some anchors dont have quick links or rap rings and have recently placed to older slings/cords equalizing the 2 anchor bolts with a carabiner in place to rap, so bring some quicklinks, cordolette/slings or bail biners if you'd rather rap off your own gear.

Photos

- No Photos -