Type: Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Carlos Fuentes, Ramiro Ovalle y Dario Arancibia 5/29/1994
Page Views: 777 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tyler Nachand on Apr 19, 2018

You & This Route

2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do ·

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Right hand side of the road just past Baños Morales in Cajon del Maipo east of Santiago. Can either drive, bus or hitch-hike to Baños Morales. Park right below the approach just past the mining operation or park at the larger turn off below the Placa Verde face(300m down the road). Approach is the same as the Classic Route, about 30 minutes up a scree gulley directly towards the red rock face.

Climb the arete of the classic route for about 180ft, find rap rings and look for a horizontal crack system climbers right which is the start of the traverse pitch. There is a memorial plaque at the base of the arete.


Enjoyable 6-7 pitch trad route along the placa roja face/arete. Cajon del Maipo typical solid to decent quality sandstone. Rap the classic arete route with double ropes. Route begins along the chossy 2nd to 4th class arete up until a set of rap rings. Follow a horizontal crack system climbers right to meet up with the vertical crack system that takes you to the summit. If the arete is considered pitch 1 and the traverse pitch 2 then pitch 3 has one bolt as an anchorMore info found here chilemountains.info/pag-rc.htm


Bolted rap rings along the arete. Bolted anchor before horizontal traverse pitch, one bolt for an anchor at the top of the 3rd pitch and bolt rap rings at the summit. Natural Protection. Rap rings in acceptable condition as of Feb. 2018