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Routes in Chanchullo/El Chonta

Ataxco S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
El Aliado S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Jaguar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Guerrera Cosmica S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Kaliman S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
La Besucona S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Bocina S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
La Onza S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
La Reina Del Sur S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mala Fama S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seres Inorganicos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sin Nombre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tabarnaco S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Variante Fructaliser S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 29 total · 4/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Apr 18, 2018
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

This line is amazing and offers some of the best tufa climbing in Chonta.  With no huge stalactites offering no hands rests and kneebars this line requires more endurance than many of the other lines of this grade.  Start with a bouldery traverse left, culminating in a big move and a hard clip (currently there is a fixed draw).  Afterwards continue up the gently overhanging face, with a few good, but still taxing rests on huge jugs.  Pull another cryptic crux to a big flake, and cruise the enjoyable dihedral to the finish.

Probably low in the 12d grade.

There is an extension that continues up the face that looks quite hard.

Location

On the right side of the El Chonta Cave.  Starts just before the wall turns to vertical.  Look for the beautiful line running up the wide dihedral towards the anchors.

Protection

Bolts to anchors. Currently has a fixed sling at the 3rd? bolt. One of the bolts up high isn't looking too good, hanger was corroded and had water seeping out of the bolt hole, so use caution.

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