Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Clay Watson, Mike Perkins 2010|
|Page Views:||683 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||tenesmus on Apr 18, 2018|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
his incredible dike has high flow edging, mantles, smearing, with a very cool dacite (feels like quartzite) crux at the top.
Besides the fact that they have the best ribs in Atlanta, why Fat Matt's Rib Shack? Because breaking your ribs in the middle of the desert sucks!
I learned that when you drill a route on lead, be sure to bring a lot more bolts than you think you'll need. I ran out of them near the top and thought I could punch it up to a tree. Turns out I was wrong and took a huge fall, hitting an old tree limb that caught the drill that was strapped to my back, breaking a few ribs. Scrambling through the boulders on the way out was one of the more miserable climbing experiences I've had.
Follow the dark brown dacite rib up and right, clipping bolts, mantling and edging your way up. As you turn the corner near the top, you'll find cool edge climbing on the featured dike. Full value climbing.
This is in the left fork, on the south facing side of the headwall you see as you first enter the canyon. The dike is a few gullies up and on the right. The canyon is complex but short and you can see it from the ridge opposite if you come in from the far left fork. Should take half an hour from the campsite - unless you don't see it.