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Optimus Prime
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British V4 YDS 6B Font
Avg: 4 from 2
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Routes in Substation Bluff
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Optimus Prime TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a V4 6B |
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| Type: | TR, Boulder, 22 ft (7 m) |
| FA: | Tim McGivern and Luis Gaviria |
| Page Views: | 555 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Tim McGivern on Apr 17, 2018 |
| Admins: | Derek Sullivan, Joe M, Old Timer, jim.dangle |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Boulders are on private property
Details
Most of these boulders are on private property and have access issues. Access is unclear at this time. Interested in helping make these accessible? Contact the Southeast New England Climbing Coalition: facebook.com/Southeast-New-…
Description
Sit start at the base of the left-trending (almost horizontal) crack. Move out left following the crack for a few moves until you can gain the good hold under the bulge. From there, move up to a good jug. Move up to marginal holds, and trend left across the dicey slab to gain a good rail and, soon after, the lip at the top.
This is the prominent line up the feature. A toprope anchor can be built with 3-4 cams ranging from 0.5 to 1.0 and a 10' piece of looped webbing.
The FA was done with a TR. This would be a highball V4 boulder problem with a crux about 12' up before a dicey slab! Go get it!
If you are tall enough, there is an early escape out right once you gain the upper slab.
This is the prominent line up the feature. A toprope anchor can be built with 3-4 cams ranging from 0.5 to 1.0 and a 10' piece of looped webbing.
The FA was done with a TR. This would be a highball V4 boulder problem with a crux about 12' up before a dicey slab! Go get it!
If you are tall enough, there is an early escape out right once you gain the upper slab.
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