Type: Sport, Aid
FA: F.A- with bow and arrow, Charles Dotter, Tony Bates, Jeff Dotter, Marcia Bilbao, June 1967. F.A. Solo- Brad Englund, Sep 7, 1994. F.F.A. Derrick Peppe
Page Views: 112 total · 12/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Apr 15, 2018 with updates from Nathan Collins
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This route is listed as 5.4 A1 in the 2010 falcon guide but went free at about 10d. If your aiding it, scramble from the base to a large ledge then clip the first bolt with your ladder. Bolts to an anchor. If you wanna try the free thing, scramble up the start to the ledge, clip the first bolt then basically campus up and start crushing. Keep slightly right of the bolt line. Bolts are super close (bolt ladder) but with the horrid rock and wild exposer on your right side, you’ll be glad there so close.

Quoting the Alan Watts guide: "Rock doesn't get much worse than this
[...]. Save a life and avoid these spires on all but the least crowded days. The sport routes of Phoenix Buttress are in the line of fire far below."

Location

On the west side of the summit. The bolts are painted so look carefully. 

Protection

Bolts, anchor with long chains. Expect rock to break. Be aware of people below. There are two routes in vulture gully so check the gully and confirm that no one is down there. The rock will get better, not amazing, but better than it is today as more adventurers climb it. Note: you can not hit Phoenix buttress with rockfall. The gully sends it north and there is a cliff band that stops any rock headed that way. I had a friend at the bottom watch from a safe location while I cleaned one day.

Photos

Quinn Demaris
Prineville, OR
Quinn Demaris   Prineville, OR
2nd bolt is missing, still not to hard to navigate. Good climb, worth the hike. Sep 16, 2018