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Routes in North Face

Directa de los Martinez T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Gizon berri bat Naiz T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Murciana 78 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Pilar del Cantabrico T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jose Luis & Juan Carlos Garcia Gallego, Juan Carlos Ferrer Almansa, Alfonso Cerdan, Sandoval, 1978
Page Views: 73 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Lepesant on Apr 15, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Stellar climbing on the best stone one can imagine. The hard pitches (3&4) can easily be aid-climbed without aiders (A0), the bolts have all been replaced. To free climb pitch 3, you have to do some detours away from the bolts. There is a lot of glorious 5.10 on this route. There are topos etc. on the hut.
To descend, either rap the route or go down the South Face and around the mountain.

Location

From the hut, head straight up to the base of the wall (15 min). The route starts on a ramp that leads from the base to the obvious pillar, to the left of which you find the orange overhang.

Protection

Bring a set of cams and nuts, as well as slings and at least 15 quickdraws. Double ropes are useful.

Photos

ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
Superb climbing and location. Possibly the best alpine limestone you will ever climb. I've seen the obligatory/free climbing on pitch 4 rated from 6c to 7a+ but I also think the protection may have changed since I did it in '93 as there was really no aid option and there now seems to be an aid rating for parts of this pitch. May 24, 2018

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