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Void of Form

5.9, Sport, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.2 from 217 votes
FA: Kevin Wagner, Ryan Boyden, Allie Burnett, Peter Senchyna, Ann Marie Maly (2017)
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Pontatoc Canyon > Pontatoc Ridge
Warning Access Issue: Restrictions January 1 - April 30 DetailsDrop down

Description

THIS ROUTE IS CLOSED JAN 1 TO APRIL 30 EVERY YEAR. Please respect the closure. This will help enable Bighorn Sheep to thrive and will help to maintain positive access relationships with local land management. See the current documentation here (active through 2025): fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

Void of Form climbs the long buttress of rock that ends at Pontatoc Peak. The name was given when the first ascentionists of Shelter From the Storm named this massive chunk of rock the "Void of Form Buttress" after the Bob Dylan song. While Shelter From the Storm (and the only other route on the cliff at the time of writing) ascends the top half of this buttress, the first pitches of those routes climb cracks to the right to access the big grassy ledge, and then hike East to access the upper half of the buttress. The unpredictable character of the protectable features on this banded gneiss cliff led to the near death of a member of the first ascent party. In contrast, Void of Form climbs the entirety of the buttress from its lowest to highest aspect, and climbs impeccable (albeit naturally unprotectable) rock for the majority of the route.

Ten pitches of moderate but exciting climbing leads to an excellent summit, and one of the best walk-offs around. Most of the belays are on big ledges (with the exception of the 10" wide 6th pitch belay ledge), and a bivy could likely be fashioned in many places, including the summit. However, the climbing is mostly easy (5.5/5.6ish), and even the slowest parties should be able to pull off the climb in a day (hence the grade III rating).

This route is something unique for Tucson and Southern Arizona, as it is currently the longest sport route in the area, and one of the longest in the US. At an easily accessible grade of 5.9 and equipped for fast retreat with a single 70 meter rope, this route is recommendable to almost any climber. Finding, cleaning, and establishing this route took five months of effort. The hardware is all bomber and should last for decades. However, it has become quite popular. It should be possible for faster parties to pass in several places without causing anyone to be inconvenienced, but if you aren't interested in that or the alternative of waiting in line, consider climbing this during the off season or waking up early!

The pitch breakdown: (lengths are for rappelling, not necessarily the climbing line; star ratings are subjective)

Note that the approach for Void of Form takes a sharp right turn upon reaching the cliff, descends through the bushes for several meters, and then arrives at an easy to reach first bolt. There is a second line of bolts several hundred feet to the left (see route description for Signals).

1) 5.8, 30m, *: A low first bolt marks the start of the route. Climb easy ledges to a bulge, navigate around it, and then climb more easy ledges. Finish out right on a steep bowl of rock with good holds. P1 ends on "Prickly Pear Ledge".

2) 5.7, 35m, ***: Climb straight up the ramp from the belay, clip a traverse bolt for the follower, and then cross right to the main wall and a nicely featured slab.

3) 5.9, 35m, ****: Start at the left of the belay ledge and climb left around the arete, or straight up for extra spice. An airy and unlikely move left at the 4th bolt and a horizontal crack brings you back to slab terrain. After several bolts of slab, cross right at the tree (easier to cross low), and follow cracks to the belay. If retreating after pitch 3, rappel to climber's right of the tree (the bolts are climber's left). 

4) 5.8, 20m, ***: an airy traverse left from the belay (photo-op) leads to big holds on a vertical face.

5) 5.8, 20m, **: a second (smaller) traverse pitch leads to the half-way ledge. Combine with P4 for efficiency, or split it in two to keep an eye on your climber.

6) 5.9, 30m, ***: a difficult start right above the belay leads to a vertical face with good holds, passing one huge ledge to arrive at an exposed belay on the smallest ledge on route. It is possible to link with P7 to skip the semi-hanging belay, if desired.

7) 5.8, 30m, *:  a crux off the belay and run out after the first bolt leads to the 200' adventurous section of mountaineering-esque climbing. It would be easy to get lost here, but if in doubt the next bolt is likely straight up. Try not to fall between the first and second bolts, as you will likely impact your belayer.

8) 5.7, 30m, *: more mountaineering-esque climbing leads to a big ledge at the base of the crux overhang of the next pitch. Links with P7, slings may help reduce rope drag.

9) 5.9, 35m, ****: two bolts of overhanging bucket climbing leads to a difficult mantle (crux of the route). Surmount the crux, and climb sustained face and cracks to Black Widow Ledge under the giant roof.

10) 5.8, 20m, ***: walk far to the left to clip the first bolt, then climb up to a corner. Find a way to get established in the corner, and finish on the face to the right. It is ***highly recommended*** to step right over the roof after clipping the last bolt, look down at where you came from, and savor the exposure before pulling onto the summit.

Belay your partner to the top and then enjoy the nice hike down Pontatoc Ridge Trail with views of the Tucson basin.

Location

Approach via Pontatoc Canyon trail( 1.5-2 miles ). Exit the main trail to the right where a fork forms an entrance to a sub-trail on the right (32º20'41.95" N, 110º53'31.02" W). Follow this trail until it turns to slabs, then cross the drainage at cairns. Follow more cairns up the boulder field, aiming for the toe of the buttress. At the top of the boulders, a short slab scramble leads to the final section, becoming a game trail that leads to the base of the route. The final 40 feet of approach passes a wooded section, then turns right into it to find the first bolt between the trees.

Allow 1.5±0.5 hours for approach and 1.5±0.5 hours for descent depending on your fitness and ego.

It is recommended to leave nothing at the base and do not try to haul on this route.

Protection

16 quick draws for the longest pitch (P9), though skipping bolts is definitely an option where the climbing is easy.
The route will likely feel over-bolted for the 5.10+ climber. While the cruxes are well-protected, due to the low angle nature of the wall there are several do-not-fall zones, especially given that a rescue 700 feet off the ground would be complicated at best. All anchors are equipped with chains and retreat is straightforward with a single 70 meter rope (but not possible with a 60).  You will need a total of 19 draws if you combine P6 and P7 and plan to clip all the bolts on these two pitches.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hard earned sunset summit views, facing Tucson.
[Hide Photo] Hard earned sunset summit views, facing Tucson.
Peter Senchyna on the crux 9th pitch during the first ascent.
[Hide Photo] Peter Senchyna on the crux 9th pitch during the first ascent.
The start of the route.
[Hide Photo] The start of the route.
Pitch 4 traverse with the angle exaggerated in the other direction compared to the other photos. What's the real angle of this pitch? You'll just have to go and find out!
[Hide Photo] Pitch 4 traverse with the angle exaggerated in the other direction compared to the other photos. What's the real angle of this pitch? You'll just have to go and find out!
Allie Burnett topping out on the first ascent.
[Hide Photo] Allie Burnett topping out on the first ascent.
Benoit Blanc on the final ledge of the route.
[Hide Photo] Benoit Blanc on the final ledge of the route.
The route starts right about here.
[Hide Photo] The route starts right about here.
Ann-Marie Maly about to step out over the giant roof on the 10th (final) pitch.
[Hide Photo] Ann-Marie Maly about to step out over the giant roof on the 10th (final) pitch.
Approximate location of aggresive honey bee colony attack of 2 separate hiking groups on the trail that serves as descent trail for Void of Form.  One hiker reported 50 stings, 3 other hikers required SAR rescue & helicopter evac of one of the hikers.
[Hide Photo] Approximate location of aggresive honey bee colony attack of 2 separate hiking groups on the trail that serves as descent trail for Void of Form. One hiker reported 50 stings, 3 other hikers requi…
The ledge atop pitch 9 offers a great place to take a nap before completing the final short pitch and walk back to the car.
[Hide Photo] The ledge atop pitch 9 offers a great place to take a nap before completing the final short pitch and walk back to the car.
Remnants of fire retardant paint on some of the bolt hangers following the Bighorn Fire. All bolts are fine, I just thought this was mildly interesting.
[Hide Photo] Remnants of fire retardant paint on some of the bolt hangers following the Bighorn Fire. All bolts are fine, I just thought this was mildly interesting.
The climber's trail branches off of the Pontatoc Canyon trail at 32º20'41.95" N, 110º53'31.02" W, just before the trail switches back to the West.
[Hide Photo] The climber's trail branches off of the Pontatoc Canyon trail at 32º20'41.95" N, 110º53'31.02" W, just before the trail switches back to the West.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joshua Ngo
Tempe, AZ
[Hide Comment] Would it be possible to get bolt counts for each pitch on the breakdown? Apr 22, 2018
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Really Joshua, Take 16 draws like Kevin said and go. Apr 24, 2018
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Pretty impressive - 10,000 pages views in 10 days. I am sure people are just champing at the bit to get on this climb.

I'm going to leave this here as this climb is in Wilderness:

wilderness.org/infographic-…

Check out #3 and #5 in particular under "The Wilderness Climbing Ethic". It will be interesting to see if this climb and it being released so publicly ends up being a good thing for the Tucson climbing community. Apr 25, 2018
Scott M. McNamara
Presidio San Augustine Del…
[Hide Comment] Isn't this route within the Sheep closure---January 1 to April 30?

Isn't anything off trail out-of-bounds? Apr 26, 2018
Sam Skovgaard
Port Angeles, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Regarding the sheep closure, if you take a map of the Pontatoc Ridge and Canyon Trails and plot out a 400' radius circle centered on the Ridge Trail near the top of the climb, the entire climb is contained within that circle. Unfortunately, the described approach hike starting from the Pontatoc Canyon Trail involves a short section where you are not within 400 feet of either trail. So, if you REALLY wanted to climb this during sheep closure season, you could hike to the top, rap the route, climb it, then walk back off. Apr 30, 2018
Kevin Wagner
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Hey Sam, thanks for checking on the possibility to rap the route during the sheep closure. Hiking to the top and rappelling is actually pretty straightforward. If you go to the actual summit (sub-trail to the right before the mines) once you get there turn to the West and find a large roof 100-200 feet back down trail. Navigate to this part of the cliff and you will find the *grey* chains at the top of Void of Form on a comfy ledge. Be aware that there is another set of *white* chains at the top of Shelter from the Storm's summit chimney that will require two ropes to rap–do not get confused by these!!! Also, I think this actually depends on whether the trail to the summit counts as an official trail or not (unfortunately, I do not think it does, but checking with the Forest Service cannot hurt). May 4, 2018
Sam Skovgaard
Port Angeles, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I climbed this today and wow! What a great route. I did it in rope solo style with the walkoff after a previous failed attempt a few days earlier, and here are some takeaways:

1) get an early start, the route is in the shade (in May) until 11:30am
2) this route is not good for bringing a small haul bag, which I tried on a previous failed attempt, too many ledges and traverses, not worth it
3) wearing a backpack with shoes/water isn't bad at all, as the vast majority of your time is spent on 5.5-5.6 climbing
4)do the walk-off, it's so much better than repeating the bushwhack part of the approach
5)the rating of the crux pitch 9 at 5.9+ is accurate, but I thought the sustained white slippery section mid pitch was way harder than the mantle move
6) if you have to bail and rap down, it's easy, even the traversing pitches, but do single rope raps, sooo many spots your knot could get stuck with double rope
7) standout pitches: 3, 6, 9

Major props to the team that put this up, the thought of hammering in all those bolts by hand makes my shoulder ache! May 4, 2018
Ravinder Singh
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] A good day out but route felt very over bolted. I agree with Andrew's mention on the unnecessary belay stance. It didn't feel exposed. Just inconvienent. Would be good if the description mentioned most of the climbing (60-70%) is 5.5 to 5.6. May 5, 2018
Kevin Wagner
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Thanks for going up there so early in the life of the route and providing feedback guys! I really appreciate it. I have updated the route description and hopefully you will find some info that you would have appreciated before your ascent.

I will happily remove bolts that the community deems unnecessary, but I have to say that I disagree about the route being very over-bolted. I wonder if you feel the same way about the 5.11/5.12 climbs on Mt. Lemmon with bolts every 6 feet or less? The average bolt spacing on Void of Form is about 10 feet, some more some less, which is fairly similar to other routes in the area (Steel Crazy probably being the most similar in difficulty, length, and style).

Of the other long sport routes in the country (and the world, for that matter) I believe Void of Form is rather conservatively bolted. Go climb Theater of Shadows or Sinocranium in City of Rocks (both very fun routes) where you can literally unclip a bolt at your knees and clip the next one at your face. That is not the story here. I recommend checking out the incredible climbing in El Potrero Chico, Mexico (the multi-pitch sport climbing capital of the world). I expect you will find the body-length bolt spacing to be extremely similar to Void of Form.

Given that many 5.9 climbers (probably many solely sport climbers who have never had to deal with a no-fall zone) are likely to jump on this route, combined with the somewhat unpredictable character of banded gneiss, and the complicated nature of a high angle rescue, we decided to err on the side of caution. If you prefer 20+ feet per bolt, you are perfectly welcome to skip every other one.

That being said, we put a lot of time, effort, and money into this route, and want it to be absolutely the best possible experience for everyone who climbs it. If many 5.9 climbers think less bolts would be better, I will be glad to get my bolts back, and it will be on the community and the climber if somebody is seriously injured. May 6, 2018
Ben Rackham
East Providence, RI
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Fun day out--thanks Kevin et al.! The bolting is on the conservative side but didn't seem over the top to me. I think the typical climber matched to this route would appreciate the spacing. May 6, 2018
Jeff Ladderud
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Thanks for all your time, labor, and $$ in developing this! I skipped a few bolts and had no qualms with that. P9 was definitely the money pitch. It was nice having shade until 11.

I am curious if there are plans to make the approach trail a bit more sustainable. I will echo Andrew's concerns about it being really erosion prone. Not a huge issue with a couple people using it here and there. But if this route gets lots of traffic it may be worth looking into. May 20, 2018
Kevin Wagner
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Your comment made me laugh, Sam. I can't believe that people are still climbing this thing on 108 degree days! I'm sorry that the experience was not what you thought it would be.

We had some plans to establish a better trail, but since trail building in the wilderness is not allowed we decided to cancel this effort. There are probably 30-50 cairns on the approach. If you did not find these my guess is that you got lost pretty early. Ending up in the middle of the second pitch sounds epic!

I'm not sure what you mean by "exaggerated exposure" in the pictures... I'd love to see some photos from other climbers posted, as I'm sure others can do better than I can.

You can easily climb this in fewer than 10 pitches. My recommendation is to link 4 and 5–really these should have been a single pitch, but the rappel is much smoother with the midway anchor. I've linked them every single time I've climbed the route. You CANNOT link pitches 6-8! None without a 100 meter rope should apply for this beta. Each of these pitches is right on at about 100 feet.

Too many chains is accurate only if you want to be carrying double 60 meter ropes out there or commit to no easy retreat. We thought we would do a favor to anyone who prefers to take a single 70m rope and establish ~100 foot pitches with chain anchors. The exceptions as I mentioned are pitches 4 & 5, which traverse and needed a mid anchor at about 20 meters for the rappel. Also pitch 10 is quite short, but the huge ledge traverse and climbing around roofs and corners adds some gnarly rope drag in my experience.

There's at least a sentence for each pitch, what more info would you appreciate without giving what some might call too much beta? Finally, which bolts should be removed? If MP commenters can decide on specific bolts that do not endanger a ledge fall to be removed, I'll happily go get my bolts back. Jun 9, 2018
Andrew Yost
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Climbed this as a night climb with a group of 3. Sweaty hike in as the sun went down. Got to the wall at about 830 and the summ at 245 am.

First off, thank you for your contribution. The climbing itself was alright, found myself high stepping a lot. It does feel heavily bolted and maybe some of the stations could be moved?
But it was amazing fun. I thought it was really cool to have an 5.9 bushwacky adventure climb. The location was stunning. I like how accessible it is and seems like a good route to take up beginners without sketching them out. Honestly, I could care less how many bolts it has, skip em if you don’t want em.

Thanks for your time! Jul 1, 2018
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] So a guy goes out spends hundreds of dollars and many months setting up the longest bolted 5.9 in the Catalinas and someone actually goes online and whines. If you bolt it they will complain especially Sam Stanton! First ascentionists, especially new ones always over hype their routes. The comments about the photos are priceless. Except for one they all look like you are slogging up a slab. The too many bolts comment is priceless in 2018. If you don't want them skip them. Unbelievable! Jul 2, 2018
Eric B
Tucson, AZ
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] FA's: Guys this was a fantastic climb. Great work on this.

Commenters: So much hate! Who shit in your salads?

Sam Stanton not too sure how you got lost on the approach being such a seasoned Sedona climber...Helen Keller could see those cairns....

We did it a few days ago at night and it was a total blast (might have been frowned upon, so apologies there).

My comments - one bolt was in a weird spot putting the biner on the hanger side in direct contact with the rock...90% sure an actual fall on it would probably break the biner. Can't remember which pitch it was, it was close to the anchors from the previous one though. A bolt was right above it so you could easily back clean it or skip it, def a no-fall zone regardless of how you approach mitigating it.

A few pitches were a bit soft by lemmon standards; you put this up for 5.9 climbers though and I think anyone climbing in that grade should by all means go into this climb confidently and not be scared of being sandbagged - it really is fantastic. Since it was nighttime we have no idea what the exposure was like, but the climbing was more often than not subvertical/slabby. Beta: think "buckets" like lower lemmon/La Milagrosa, more deep edges than jugs.

Definitely worth getting on for the adventure. Thanks for putting this up guys/gals! Jul 5, 2018
Jane
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] P4 traverse is slopy and pretty mellow. The photos of P4 posted here are titled to make the crag looking vertical. How ridiculous. Hahaha. Jul 23, 2018
Jane
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] Thanks Kevin and his gang for putting up Void of Form. My partner and I thoroughly enjoyed climbing this route! Well bolted and fun! Jul 23, 2018
[Hide Comment] Myself (Kyle Pilcher), and my partner (Jak Kearsley) just set a new speed record! we did car to car in 3:30:54 and we did the climb in 1:48:07. Super fun, Go Beat it!! Sep 16, 2018
Jane
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] I climbed the route a second time with a different partner. Again, many thanks to the team who bolted this fun route. I personally think that it should be in the Classics of Mt. Lemmon. As of September 23, the route is entirely in shade until 1:50 pm. P10 feels more like 5.7 IMHO. Sep 25, 2018
Jane
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] Hi, Kevin, I think the entire route is well bolted. Therefore, PG13 over all. Sep 25, 2018
Chris Adams
Mesa, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] WARNING: LOOSE ROCK LEFT OF THE SECOND BOLT ON THE FACE ON PITCH 10. - the rock is located in the gulley/chimney. It’s not a key boulder for the climb but could fall if pulled on. We tried to free it without success so as of Oct 16th it’s still there.

A fun route and a fun Adventure. Thank you to the team that took the time, money, and energy to put this together. With a couple of extenuating circumstances our rope team of two climbed VOF in a relaxed 5 hours. Not including hiking time.

Here’s my observations - No route spoilers

Approach: took us only an hour. We were at a relaxed pace so as not to miss the climbers trail. The climbers trail was well marked and the cairns were easy to follow. Great job creating the path to the climb.

The climb:
I thought the bolting was fine. There were several moments where I thought rope drag would come in to play because of the bolt path but I was surprised when the rope ran well with only a single extended alpine draw. VOF seems to thoughtfully protect ledgefalls and the path as much as possible. I thought the first bolt on the route was kind of funny because it was maybe six feet off the ground and then my partner pointed out that the first bolt kept the rope from running through a cactus; this protects the fauna and the rope. Everybody wins! If you feel it’s overbolted just don’t clip ‘em. That being said I felt that some of the climbing could have been protected traditionally. But I understand the spirit and intention of the climb too.

A couple of pitches are so-so climbing but there are some fun ones too. Bound to happen with any long climb.
I think my favorite was either pitch 3 or pitch 9. The roof problems were Straightforward and fun and the climbing after was enjoyable.

Difficulty-wise this seems like a soft nine to me. If you’re leading nine’s, and not sure about climbing VOF, I say go for it.

We climbed this in mid October and didn’t get sun until we topped out at about 1:30pm.

We had a fun time on VOF

Thanks again for putting this up! Oct 17, 2018
Kevin Wagner
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The loose rock mentioned in the previous comment is no more. Thanks for the heads up, Chris, and have fun everyone! Nov 8, 2018
Chris Adams
Mesa, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Thanks for taking care of that Kevin! Nov 12, 2018
Justin Headley
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Can you post coordinates for exactly where you branch off of the main trail? We never really found the subtrail until we were about 150 feet from the base of the climb. We ended up going too high way too early. Funny thing is someone built a few cairns up there so we thought we were going the right way.

I thought the climb was an enjoyable outing in a scenic area. Not particularly challenging (probably no more than 30-40 feet of 5.9 climbing on the whole thing), but fun nonetheless. As a route developer myself, I totally understand the desire to try as hard as you can to protect people from ledge falls, and I'm sure plenty of people will appreciate all those bolts. Maybe some were unnecessary, but it'd just be silly to go out and remove them now. They're not hurting anything by being there.
Overall, I think it's a fine addition to the Catalinas multipitch collection. Nov 17, 2018
Kevin Wagner
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Hey Justin, the coordinates for the start of the climber's trail are 32º20'41.95" N, 110º53'21.02" W. I've added a beta photo showing where this breaks off from the main trail. I suspect that you ended up on the old approach from KR Goes to Valhalla / Shelter From the Storm. The new approach stays on the canyon trail for much longer and avoids a lot of the bushwacking / eroding. Nov 20, 2018
Rachel Peterson
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Just did this climb yesterday! We had such a blast, thanks to the developer for all the time and effort that must have gone into setting this.

My favorite pitches were 3 and 6, some thoughtful slab moves and gorgeous views, left me with a big smile! Great belay positions on all but pitch 6 which is a hanging belay. I am currently lead 10a and felt this was a really fun full day romp! If you lead 5.9 you should have no problems on this route, unless you are very weak on slab. Pitch 9 was the crux for me, my partner led it, she felt pitch 6 was harder. Slick bulge-y white granite with few holds and some fun exposure right when you are at your most tired! The bolting is very well protected and feels safe for a 5.9 leader. If you want to bitch and moan about overbolting...skip some. Sheesh.

A hold broke off for my follower on pitch 10, so watch out for loose things topping out here. All other loose blocks had been well marked with chalk "x' which we appreciated.

The hike in took about 1 hour 20 for us. We hit the summit at sunset, the hike out was brutally steep downhill but very pretty in the full moon light and took about 1 hour 45 (we were tired and hangry haha).

I would recommend this to anyone who wants to practice big wall enduro runs without hauling, or moderate leaders who want a long adventurous day out! Nov 21, 2018
Sea Shell
Los Angeles
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Ascended this climb November 20th. Started at the base at 10am and made the summit about 5pm. Was in the shade the entire time until about pitches 7 through 9.
From the main trail to the base of the climb took a total of 80 minutes. Hiked the main trail about 1.5 to 2 miles until the obvious climbers trail goes right. There were plenty of cairns on the climbers trail to guide my partner and I to the base of the climb.

Pitches 3, 6, and 9 all felt at the 5.9 level. I led pitch 9 and it was definitely my favorite out of all the pitches.
Make sure to bring alpine draws to reduce drag especially for the traverse-linked pitches 4 and 5.
As for the amount of bolts, I surely did not mind it. There are plenty of ledges that could cause serious injury and why would the developers want that for such a long day of moderate climbing that is intended to be..well...safe ? If you want more spice then spice up the climbs with a run out by skipping bolts, or simply just find another climb. Or better yet, simul-climb!
By Mt Lemmon standards, this entire climb is mellow and not stout by any means.
This climb is a great introduction to an enduro-multi-pitch outing and any strong 5.9 leader can test their skills with this climb. Have a good time on some fun, safe, and mellow pitches. That's what the developers wanted for this multi-pitch. Make sure to stay energized and enjoy the rewarding summit views.

Descent is quite long hike down so make sure to account for about 2 hours if going at steady pace.


Also, thank you so much to the developers of this route! It was a spectacular experience. Nov 21, 2018
SlammyG
Scottsdale, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] "I came in from the wilderness a creature void of form" Big thanks to the FA team here. Great job guys - throughly enjoyed the route.

Had a fun day out here on the 23rd, love having an adventure climb like this so close to home. Our families even hiked the Pontatoc Trail in the afternoon and watched us from below.

Agree that Pitch 3, 6, and 9 are definitely the money pitches. I didn't feel anything was exceptionally difficult and this definitely climbs at the grade - a great intro into longer multi-pitch routes for someone who is weary of committing to a more challenging Cochise or Lemmon route. The rock quality is pretty solid and there is a great variety in the type of rock encountered here; I loved coming up to the white granite on 9.

The bolting was totally fine, some bolts did feel like they were in odd spots and draws hung poorly - you should bring some alpines anyway to help drag on some pitches (1-2/4-5). Anchors were in great spots on nice ledges, we took some nice breaks on the P5 and P9 anchor (you could definitely bivy up here which would be exciting).

I feel like the beginning of the approach trail should be moved as this will likely see a good deal of erosion and is not sustainable as is. It was easy to find however and well cairned up to the start.

We did this at a leisurely pace - still full and hungover from Thanksgiving. We started from the car at 7:30, hike to turn off around an hour, another 30 to the base. Climbed it as a party of 2 in just under 5 hours with substantial breaks on a few ledges. Descent took just under an 1.5 hours.

Thanks again to the FA party - excited to see what else you guys find in this area as there is a lot of opportunity in the range here. Anyone complaining about this route should probably go find something else to climb. Nov 26, 2018
Sam Skovgaard
Port Angeles, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I climbed this for the second time on 11/26/18 and again had a blast;
I will be back many times in the future. I would like to mention that rockfall is a serious hazard on this route. I had a 10lb chunk rip off unexpectedly on pitch 6, a large block moved about 6 inches on me as I tried pulling onto the ledge 15ft into pitch 9, and the were numerous other thin flexy flakes I avoided weighting throughout the climb. Thankfully the party following 1 pitch below me didnt get hit when I pulled that handhold, but their presence prevented me from cleaning any other loose pieces that day. You would be a fool to get on this route without a helmet. Nov 27, 2018
Ryan Callahan
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] What are temps like mid December for the route? Is it in the sun? Dec 3, 2018
Kevin Wagner
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Temperatures are generally pretty great in December (50-70 degrees), but the wall gets shade most of the day so bring a warm layer! Dec 3, 2018
bio
mesa, az
[Hide Comment] I just climbed this yesterday;12/13/18. The weather was perfect, was climbing in a t-shirt most of the time. First I want to thank the FA's for all the hard work, resources, and vision put into this. After reading all the comments I was curious about what it would be like. First, the approach is really not a big deal, you're only carrying a rope and draws anyway. The established trail is a beautiful hike, the climbers trail is pretty obvious and frankly you'd have to be pretty stoned to get lost on it - there are a million cairns and it's well worn. The approach took us 50 minutes and we weren't in a hurry. Pitch 3 has some fun 5.9 slab moves on it, and there is an occasional fun movement here and there on other pitches as well. I have put up a number of FA's myself and I know how critical people can be - people who typically haven't put up routes of their own. This route isn't necessarily the route I would have put up, but it's a great addition to AZ climbing for what it is - a chance to get up pretty high on a wall with minimal anxiety, knowledge base, or effort. This type of route will be a great chance for people getting into the sport or wanting to break out onto a multipitch experience for the first time. My partner and I did the climb in 2:45 without being in a hurry at all. We comfortably combined 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10 into five long pitches. The most draws we used on any of these combinations was 16, due to skipping quite a few bolts. It was a fun outing, and we were greeted by a friendly coati when we got to the top! BTW, the route description is great, really all the beta one needs is there. Dec 13, 2018
A H
 
[Hide Comment] Great job and excellent beta. I thoroughly enjoyed the route. What a great addition to Tucson climbing. Many thanks to Kevin, Ryan, Allie, Peter and Ann for all the hard work. We skipped a few bolts here and there and linked 1-2, 4-5, 6-7, 8-9. The 5.9 rating is right on the money. The view 10' below the final chains is amazing. The only negative is I loved the view so much from top of pitch 3, I tried to take a picture and dropped my phone! Last I saw, it was in at least 3 pieces! If somebody finds it let me know.
Can't wait to take my wife up the route! Dec 16, 2018
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] what a fun route. 5.9 seems right on with the slabby crux coming on pitch 3. if you are going to link pitches then bring alpine draws; we linked a few and got some heinous rope drag. but in my opinion there's no need to link anything, it's all bolted anchors so transitions take minimal time. just swing leads and enjoy the climbing and exposure! Jan 2, 2019
Elena Sobolic
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Climbed on 5/18/2019: Someone removed the cairns on the approach for the entrance to the climbers trail, set us back about 20 minutes as we spent a decent amount of time searching for the 2 nonexistent cairns.

We added new ones - removing the cairns will NOT stop climbers from hiking through the desert and will in fact create far more damage and erosion going off trail. It was more than likely hikers who did it, but just saying it could happen again. Check the photo "entrance to the climbers trail" for reference if you don't run into them. That's what saved us!

With that being said - awesome route! Thanks for all the hard work in setting up this sport multi-pitch. We had a blast. May 22, 2019
Elaine K
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Our route:

1. Combine pitch 1&2: bring lots of draws or skip some clips. Expect some rope drag.
2. Pitch 3.
3. Combine pitch 4&5: you'll end up out of sight but it's not bad.
4. Pitch 6. Tough start. Highly recommend you combine with pitch 7. We didn't. You should. The hanging belay is not necessary.
5. Pitch 7. Mostly easy, run-out climbing.
6. Pitch 8. Could have combined with 7... but I'd suggest combining 6&7, then keeping 8 on it's own.
7. Pitch 9. Good to do on it's own to keep eyes on the climber at the start. Definitely the most sustained pitch.
8. Pitch 10.

My recommendation for efficiency - which leaves one climbing doing all the 5.9 pitches, and one stringing together more of the easier pitches, and skipping the hanging belay. Would need a 70m:
1. Pitches 1&2
2. Pitch 3
3. Pitches 4&5
4. Pitches 6&7
5. Pitch 8
6. Pitch 9
7. Pitch 10 Oct 29, 2019
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Fun day of moderate climbing up good stone. There are a lot of big ledges and some places where climbers need to be careful not to knock off loss rock on those ledges. Having said that the climb angles here and there to stay on quality rock so the belayer is rarely directly below the climber. A great climb for a newer climber to get off the ground on. Never felt very exposed but I have been at this for awhile. Nov 7, 2019
[Hide Comment] Super fun route. No good deed goes unpunished. Nov 9, 2019
Regina x
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Super fun!
p3 is best moves of a climb with tons of great moves and fun climbing.

Long moderate, fun moves, safe bolts? Would love to get on more climbs like this one!

- Nice, safe bolting. Bonus for nice pics and views--climbing is not too exposed, but enough to enjoy the view.
- approach and descent has many cairins. Even me, known to get lost easily, had a fine time on finding trail.
- some loose rock - be careful for people below you, and it should be fine. (Tried to X one esp thin wobbly flake-- maybe rain/melting ice wash away the chalk X though) Dec 31, 2019
Nick Henscheid
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Just a reminder that this route falls under the Jan 1-April 30 bighorn sheep closure (see linked Forest Service order above). Not only are the fines non-trivial, but it makes climbers look bad if we violate these closures. There is plenty of other climbing around! Feb 11, 2020
Kirk Miller
Catalina, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Pontatoc ridge and VOF are open. Great climb to a cool summit. Nice to walk off on a decent trail. Great conditions yesterday; stayed in the shade all morning. Thanks to the FA crew for all the work to put this one up! Oct 11, 2020
[Hide Comment] Heads up! The hanger on the third bolt of P2 popped off today during our climb. This is the first bolt off the anchor ledge, so this is now a definite no fall zone until you get to bolt four of this pitch. There were a couple other loose bolts higher up on this pitch, but everything else was bomber. Amazing climb! Nov 2, 2020
Sam Boyle
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] so first thing first, thank you so much to the setters this route is actually so awesome and super fun.
here are some things that i wish i new before starting:
-we did the approach at night, and then camped at the base of the climb so we could start at sunrise and have plenty of time. it is possible to camp at the base, but if you do not want 4 hours of sleep at most, uneven sleeping surface and a punctured pad i would highly recommend not camping at the base.
-we only brought flip flops and climbing shoes, the approach can be done in flops but it will suck, thorns will puncture your feet, and and your feet will hurt.
-there is cell phone service in the canyon
-if you plan to link pitches use slings and a thin rope like a 9.1mm
-on pitch 9, in my opinion, the crux is not the start but more so the sustained climbing after the start.
-if you have the means to bring a bottle of chocolate milk with you, do it, chocolate milk is the perfect summit drink. no cap. Nov 7, 2020
Sam Boyle
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] kevin, the term “no cap” means your not lying ,like if you were capping you would be lying. so when i said “chocolate milk is the perfect summit drink” i was not lying.
and unfortunately i did not have any chocolate milk at the summit because i did not have the means to carry it with me and simultaneously keep it cold. but i was thinking that the summit would be that much more gratifying if i did have some cold chocolate milk. however if you do have the means to bring chocolate milk with you and keep it cold the entire time, by all means go right ahead because that would be so dope. no cap. Nov 16, 2020
Iain Macdonald
South Bay
 
[Hide Comment] Link Beta. We linked these pitches with a 70 meter pretty easily. The only difficulty was 8-9, but id still do it in the future. Back cleaning in a few key spots is also vital to preventing rope drag.
1. p1-2 Easy to link, definitely combine these two.
2. p3 Can't Imagine trying trying to link this with the fourth pitch, best to do separately.
3. p4-5 We thought linking the two traverse pitches would be difficult, turns out combining these two offered the least drag.
4. p6-7 Very fun to link up, these pitches are awesome.
5. p8-9 The toughest to link by far, but worth it. Linking these two pitches make for the best part of the climb. Back cleaning and using alpine draws makes it manageable. Bring alot of draws for linking these two. Didn't make a count, but you'd need 25+
6. p10 (No way you could link this with 9, very short pitch)
I skipped quite a few bolts on every pitch, but I really appreciate how the developers kept safety in mind, uber-safe sport climbing with great views. I originally thought that this climb would be about the adventure and not the climbing. I was wrong, there's some seriously fun moves on every pitch. I'd recommend this climb to anyone, it's just that good. Dec 10, 2020
Nick Henscheid
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Another yearly reminder that this route falls under the Jan 1-April 30 bighorn sheep closure (see linked Forest Service order above). Not only are the fines non-trivial, but it makes climbers look bad if we violate these closures. There is plenty of other climbing around!! Mar 2, 2021
Gabby Touchette
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This route was soooo fun! All of the pitches were quality climbing and generously bolted. Felt super safe the whole time which was what I needed after not climbing most of winter.

Combined pitches 1&2, 3, 4&5, 6&7, 8, 9, 10.

Thank you Kevin, you did a phenomenal job! Mar 14, 2021
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Consistently amazed that people have no regard for the mandated closure on this route, but then to top it off they straight up "tick" the route on MP or even better they post a comment with a date that is during the closure. Nice work folks! Glad you enjoyed the route and you get to help make climbers look like idiots to the USFS. Mar 14, 2021
[Hide Comment] Just did this today and had perfect conditions, though we over-walked the start of the climb and backtracked. Even with the hiccup, we summited in a little less than 4.5 hours with 2 people. Not PG-13 at all since cruxes are well protected and most pitches are cruiser so skipping bolts is no problem. Linked 4-6 by mistake and barely did it with a 70m, but rope extension was key for it to work.
Link
P1-2
3 alone
4-5
6-7
Then 8-10 each individually. Jun 5, 2021
[Hide Comment] First off, thank you so much for bolting this route. To have a 10 pitch climb readily accessible to basic climbers (normal ole’ 10+ gym climbers) like our group is amazing!

Parking: park here to hike in Richard McKee Finger Rock Trailhead (this lot apparently closes at 6pm but we got back at 8pm and the gate was still open) If you know a better place to park, please let everyone know!

Approach: follow the already listed instructions for Pontatoc Trail. For us who are in decent shape, and all in our 40s it took 1:45 to find the base of the route. The side trail is not super noticeable but a small cairn and a few rocks that look to block the side trail are good markers. Once you cross the washout pay close attention to find the trail. Head towards the “cave” looking area but stay left of the big bushy area at the bottom of the face to find the first bolt.

Climbing: opening pitches are a bit bushy. Avoid the cacti. Don’t let previous reviews confuse you. The actual climbing sections were 5.7 to 5.9. There are some scrambly bits between some bolts. Low first bolt on each pitch and entire climb was well protected with good exposure. Linking pitches is a good idea.

The walk off: go right. Immediately head down the mountain. Not a very clear path. Lots of stuff to avoid. Knees and toes was and toes were miserable heading down (remember the part where I said we’re in our 40s). We also did the hike down after sunset. 2 hours to get back to the car with beautiful views of Tucson at night.

Our group of 4 just wants to make sure every average climber knows what they are getting into. We started the hike up at 7:30am and got back to the car at 8:10pm. We’re not hard core climbers. That was the first climb over 400’ that any of us had done. It was still awesome. No regrets. The parking lot gate was still open when got there. We were super hangry so that helped.

Sincerely,

Dirty Mike and the Boys Oct 10, 2021
[Hide Comment] Fun route, started from the parking lot at 7 AM and got back at 3:30 PM
More like a desert alpine climbing, some loose rocks, bushes, dirt. Would not climb underneath anyone on this route.
Great protection with all the bolts. Great views. Stayed in the shade all day, which was perfect, as it was 80 in Tucson. Dec 4, 2021
Patrick Piedad
Sierra Vista, AZ
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb, big thanks to those that bolted this. Highly recommended for anyone looking to get a nice, manageable multi-pitch under their belt.

Route is generously bolted and I was happy to clip every single bolt. Linking pitches used around 16 draws. Highly recommend bringing alpines to reduce rope drag. We brought a 70m rope and it was perfect. Wear a helmet, there's still loose rock on the route and parties above can knock a lot of it loose. Also look out for a few chalk x's on rocks during the middle pitches to indicate loose rock, they get pretty sizeable.

We broke down pitches as follows:
Pitch 1 (didn't link with Pitch 2 because of a party in front of us)
Pitch 2
Pitch 3
Pitch 4&5
Pitch 6&7
Pitch 8
Pitch 9
Pitch 10

Approach took 1h15m, walk off took 1h30m. Route completed in 4h30m. Start early if you don't want to get stuck behind parties. We made it to the base of the climb around 715 and were the second party to climb. Dec 4, 2021
[Hide Comment] Linked 1-5, 6 and 7. Walk off took about 40 minutes. Apr 1, 2022
Kemper Brightman
The Old Pueblo, AZ
[Hide Comment] WF, I tried to contact you privately about this, but your profile has contact turned off. Im assuming your comment is related to a previous ascent outside of the closure window, If so, please edit to clarify this. If you were climbing during the closure window, I would ask on behalf of the local climbing community that you re-consider your actions, or at the very least re-consider posting publicly about such activity on public land. Apr 1, 2022
River McClure
Colorado
[Hide Comment] My belay got tired and I had to lower. The bolts just keep going! Will get it next time. Aug 10, 2022
[Hide Comment] FYI, there were 2 serious honey bee attacks of hikers on the Pontatoc Ridge trail 8/31/22 (hiker sustained reported 50 stings) & 9/5/22 (3 hikers stung badly, one requiring helicopter rescue).
This is the descent trail for Void of Form. Picture of approximate location of 2nd rescue by SAR of 3 hikers that were attacked loaded in pics (not sure where colony is, but presume near trailside). Caution regarding this descent trail. Sep 12, 2022
[Hide Comment] No bee encounters on the descent trail. There was a large hornet nest on pitch 5, partner and I walked far left to avoid. Another hornet nest at the top of pitch 10 that’s also avoidable. Oct 22, 2022
Daniel Dennis
Houston, TX
[Hide Comment] So what's the verdict on climbing this during the bighorn sheep closure period? read down the comments and someone mentioned rapping from the top summit and then climbing up to walk off wouldn't be in violation? just want to make sure before i book flights to Tucson for this amazing looking climb! Dec 14, 2022
Kemper Brightman
The Old Pueblo, AZ
[Hide Comment] @ Daniel Dennis,
The route is CLOSED during the CLOSURE. The summit trail is understood to be un official, so the route does not fall within the 400' window of an official trail. Don't worry though, there are 8 months where you are free to book a trip and climb this route! Dec 21, 2022
Kemper Brightman
The Old Pueblo, AZ
[Hide Comment] For a real adventure, start at the Hop Shop and MTB the Urban Assault trail to the trail head. If you run to the base of the route you can say you did a triathalon. Dec 23, 2022
Huxley OoO
Desert, NM
 
[Hide Comment] Easily done in 5 pitches with a 60m without simuling. Brought 18 quick draws and 5 alpine draws, skipping the occasional bolt for drag and never ran out of draws.

This is a beautiful route, in a stunning setting, and the amount of work that went into it is mind boggling. To the critics, I eagerly await climbing your better contribution to the community. Dec 29, 2022
[Hide Comment] Great route. A real pleasure to climb. The white rock on P9 was pretty awesome. If you go right it is more technical and is harder. Go left and into the chimney/cracks and it is more 5.7/5.8. Both are on the bolt line. I rope solo’d it and got to do both variations. Nov 23, 2023
[Hide Comment] Great fun, easy climbing with great views. Linked 1-2, 4-5, 6-7, simuled 8-10. The climb is definitely overbolted. Don't link pitches if you're not comfortable skipping bolts. We got stuck behind a party for close to 2 hours that had immobilized themselves with rope drag and no draws left. Approach took ~1 hr, and the walk off was about the same. Dec 25, 2023
[Hide Comment] The hike in took about 80 minutes, the climb took 4.5 hours, and the hike out took about 70 minutes.
We climbed on Dec 24. The morning temperature was 41F and the afternoon got to 59F. I was comfortable in a hoodie and pants the whole time.
The two of us consumed 4.6L of water (2.1L for one, 2.5L for the other). This is probably the minimum amout of water you'll need on this route as any other time will be warmer.
Linked pitches: 1/2, 4/5, 6/7
Individual pitches: 3, 8, 9, 10
This was a very fun adventure! Thanks so much for all of the effort that was put in to this spectacular route! Dec 26, 2023
Corey T
USA
[Hide Comment] So is this still closing on Jan 1, 2024? The doc attached says the closure is in effect until Oct 15, 2023. Any new information on the yearly closure here? I'm in the area now and would love to climb this in January. Dec 27, 2023
Kemper Brightman
The Old Pueblo, AZ
[Hide Comment] Corey,
The FS updates the closure on a yearly basis, they're late getting it published this year, but stated that it will be in effect as usual. I'll try and update the link when the 2024 order is published.
Fortunately there's tons to climb around Tucson in January other than VOF Dec 27, 2023
Andrew Leader
Bellevue, WA
 
[Hide Comment] The annual Jan 1 - Apr 30th closure is renewed through 2025 as Kemper mentioned it would be: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO… Jan 30, 2024
Rob Boyd
Phoenix
[Hide Comment] Did VoF May 2. What a fabulous climb! Nice moves, clean rock, and sustained in the 5.7-5.9 range. We linked 1-2,4-5, and 6-7 as recommended. May 7, 2024
Tom Black
United Kingdom
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] This is a really fun route that would also be great for climbers new to outdoor or multi. P3 and P9 are really good and go at the grade, the rest is pretty mellow and very enjoyable with some varied types of climbing. Bolting is really safe and anchors are mostly at huge ledges. We linked P1&2, P4&5 and P6&7. Wouldn't recommend linking P9&10 since P10 starts way left of P9 anchors. Was in the shade until about 2pm. Nov 3, 2024
Fred Weymouth
Tucson, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Did VOF Thursday, 11/14/2024. Approach took us 1.25 hours; route took 4 hours; hike back to car 1.5 hours. We were in the shade all day (until we topped out) and temps were pleasant, even with Tucson in mid 80s. We linked P1&2, P4&5 and P6&7. Lots of moderate slab climbing with a few harder moves interspersed throughout. Favorite climbing for me was pitch 9 after the "crux" - nice rock with varied movement. I found initial moves above belay on pitch 6 awkward and most difficult of the route. Thanks to the developers for putting this up! Nov 15, 2024
Erica Crowe
Calgary
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on Monday, Nov 18th while on a climbing trip from Canada. (First time climbing in AZ and holy heck y'all have some fun stuff down here!)
The hike in took us 1hr 10min, hike out 1.5hours. Climb itself was just over 4 hours. Pretty chilly in the shade (and that's coming from two Canadians :P) but we had a blast. Agree that the move at the beginning of P6 was the hardest part. That crux/ step out on P9 wasn't too hard just took some thinking. I honestly thought the hardest move was right off the ground over that bulge between the 1st and 2nd bolts on P1 haha.

Thanks to all involved putting this up. We loved it! Nov 21, 2024
Ben Rakozy
Peoria, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Major props to Kevin and crew for putting up this classic! Seriously, fantastic work guys. I can only imagine the time, energy, creativity, and moo-la that went into this. Thank you!!!

If you’re thinking about doing this climb…it’s worth it. :) A few things to consider:

1) Definitely bring some long slings or alpine draws to help with some of the rope drag if you’re linking up pitches. Linking is definitely the way to go.

2) Expect a line if you go on a Saturday. We got to the base of the climb at 10:30am and didn’t get off the ground until about 1pm - there were four to five parties ahead of us. We finished in about five hours total.

3) Have a strong mental game for slab. I’m a super comfortable 5.9 leader in the gym but I gotta admit the slab had me freaking out at times. Trust your feet, they’ll stick.

4) Bring headlamps. We hiked down in the dark—very cool view of the city but without headlamps it would have been a little dodgy.

5) The hike up to the base of the climb took about an hour, the hike down the ridge line took about two hours.

6) We climbed this late Nov, had shade until about 2-3pm. I brought 2.5 L of water and consumed it all. I recommend a light long sleeve layer for when you’re in the shade or if you’re there when the sun goes down. Wish I had flip flops when I was at the belay stations to give my dogs a break.

That’s all I got for ya. Enjoy! Nov 24, 2024
Ethan Cote
Grand Rapids, MI
 
[Hide Comment] What an enjoyable experience! Did it on Monday, November 18th. The approach of 1.5 hours is accurate, as well as the descent. Total time on the wall was just about 4.5 hours. It was definitely chilly for a good amount of it in the shade, but we were mostly comfortable in long sleeves. (High this day was 66). We linked 1&2, 4&5, and 6&7. This seems to be the new norm for many folks, however i really appreciate that it is chunked into 10 pitches because what an amazing opportunity for someone just getting into multipitch climbing. 3 and 8 were definite favorites. I would probably rate this a soft 9, especially after climbing some other 9's up the Santa Catalina highway. I would agree with another comment on here that 2.5 liters of water feels just right. All in all a great experience and would highly recommend. Dec 3, 2024
Zach Wilson
AZ
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The biggest take away I have from this climb is start super early and do not go on a weekend. The approach took an hour, we waited to start for an hour, and then proceeded to take 7.5 hours due to multiple parties ahead of us, 1 hour down. If you miss the crowds it probably could be done in 2 hours total with a comfy 5.10 leader. I felt like it was more waiting than actual climbing. Also I think it is a bit off to say this is 5.9. Although the route is rather new, I would say that I have climbed 5.8 in Arizona that is more difficult and sustained than any move on this route. There are two parts that are the “cruxes” but there are plenty of feet and literal jugs everywhere. Highly recommend if you avoid the crowds, and know that it’s mostly adventure climbing in the 5.6 range. Dec 15, 2024
Sabrina Oesterle
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] It's nice to have a long, well-protected multi-pitch sport route in the area. That said, it is a lot of walking for a mediocre route, which, in my book, is not worth a return trip. Just a few memorable pitches (4, 6, 9) in between some dirty and less than stellar climbing. I agree with the overall 5.9 rating. For me, the slab on pitch 3 was the crux. The start of pitch 3 felt contrived. Except for pitches 3 & 9, many of the other pitches felt like 5.7 (not 5.8 - judged by this mostly 5.9 climber), with the exception of pitch 1, which has some 5.8 moves. Since all belay stations are bolted and mostly on ledges, transitions are very quick. So I don't see the benefit of linking pitches (would have to protect smartly to reduce rope drag), except pitches 4&5 (5 is barely a pitch - short and half of it is scrambling on very loose ground). Overall, a well-protected long sport route, which could be a good entry into multi-pitch climbing for someone new to it. Dec 20, 2024
[Hide Comment] Super fun cruiser moderate route, and a great way to spend a day in the mountains. Best bits were on pitches 3, 4, 6, and 9. Kudos to the FA/development party.

Bolt beta...
Climbed November 2025 - there was a missing bolt hanger on pitch 7 and 6-8 spinners that we hand-tightened best as possible. Linked pitches 1 & 2, 4 & 5, 6 & 7, 8 & 9. Skipped several bolts, and still used all 20 draws we brought. If linking these pitches, you may want to bring more. Alpine draws are strongly recommended to avoid some rope drag. Nov 3, 2025
[Hide Comment] One of my new favorites. Yes, it's got an approach and a long walk-down. Yes, many of the pitches can be combined. Yes, a very small amount of the bolt spacing is closer than gym-standard (you can always skip a bolt, but you can't manifest more). But we had a day I will not soon forget. Being the only ones on it likely helped as well, because we just relaxed and chilled to the chains. If you're looking for something sustained, and hard, and exposed...this isn't it. This is just a real fun time and a great way to spend a day. The style of climbing and geology of the route kept changing throughout adding to the enjoyment. And a few chimney-style moves for those that imbibe. Kudos to the team that put this up. A little beta that echoes much below:

Approach- The GPS coordinates are accurate. You'll see a small trail to the east (right) of the main trail (there was actually a blue surveyors flag that could be seen). Follow it. There is a big cairn off to the right of the trail a few minutes in that is on a large flat area that looks like a campsite--don't go there. Keep on the subtrail until you get to the slabs that lean downward to the creekbed. You can't miss them. Then walk along the tops of the slabs (don't go into the creekbed at first sight of the slabs--keep going) until the cairns take you across the creekbed and up into the boulder field. You'll see cairns and rough trails heading up to the wall. Eventually you'll likely lose cairns (at least we didn't see anymore). When that happens keep going up and trending right toward the wall. When you get to the wall, you'll go downward and climber's right until you see the start (small ledge with a bolt...there's actually a bolt below the ledge close to the ground if you prefer to start there). 80mins.

Climb: We linked 1&2, 4&5, 6&7. If linking, bring 20 draws minimum. With 1&2 linked, I used 20 draws and skipped ~4 bolts just like Nat Mann. Alpine draws helpful on pitch 1&2 (crazy amount of rope drag...you can see from some of the photos where one would help). 1&2 had a few tough slabby moves, but is a great intro to the whole route. Start to pitch 3 was a little dicey given the positioning and move over the arete, but foot work and moving over the arete early wins the day. The missing hanger on pitch 7 is inconsequential because of solid rock and close bolts, but be aware of it. Didn't feel any spinners this time (strong hands by Nat Mann). Biggest crux for us was probably mid-way through pitch 9 after the listed "crux". Something about the slabby face. The other cruxes were mainly roofs to pull over which had solid jugs and shouldn't be a problem for any 5.9 climber. Belay ledges were large and flat and made the whole thing that much more enjoyable. We climbed early November and had complete shade until we topped out at 1:15pm. Took us about 5 hours but that was a very relaxed 5 (snacks, stories, etc). 2-2.5L water. Having a puffy or windbreaker can help with the shade. Communication is a little tricky when linking long pitches (1&2 were the worst for us).

Descent: Eventually you link up with a real trail, until then you'll trend down the ridge staying closer to the ridgeline than I would have initially expected. Cairns eventually pop up. Google maps or AllTrails can be a big help. Took us about 90mins.

Enjoy! I call this a classic. Nov 11, 2025
A H
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb. Don't underestimate the climb. It is 5.9, but not casual 5.9. Leading 2 pitches at a time creates significant rope drag! This is a fun climb. Thanks to Kevin, Ryan, Allie, Peter and Anne Marie for all the work doing this! Dec 26, 2025
[Hide Comment] Lots and lots of bolts, lots of holds and lots of fun. Jan 2, 2026
[Hide Comment] The access to this route is closed from Jan 1 to April 1 for bighorn sheep lambing. From reading past posts, it would be possible to still climb this route even during the closure because it all within 400 ft of the trail. Is this true?

If it is, it would be possible to climb this route by rappelling down from the top, and then climbing back up. Has anyone done this?

It would require hiking on the Pontatoc Canyon Trail to the top of the ridge and then finding the bolts on the top for the rappel. I’ve never been up there, does anyone know if they would be easy to find? Is it an obvious top of the ridge where the route ends and the rappel down would begin?

I would love to climb the route in this way if possible! I’m thinking about climbing it next week if possible.

I see it is a NW facing route. Does it get sun at any point during the day? Feb 8, 2026
Kemper Brightman
The Old Pueblo, AZ
[Hide Comment] My understanding is that the ridge trail (Garnet #411) is unsanctioned where it passes by the top of the cliff, thus it's still impacted by the closure, unfortunately. Feel free to correct me if folks have other info. Feb 8, 2026