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Routes in Riverside

Dragonfly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Everything Guy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Sister Mother Fucker S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Roman Stuefer, Klaus Kofler (9/2008)
Page Views: 39 total · 12/month
Shared By: Martin Jackson on Apr 15, 2018
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

This may be a shorter climb, but if bouldery moves, big holds, and dynamism are your thing you should absolutely check this out!

Start to the left of a large tufa and quickly perform some technical movements involving a sidepull and glossy feet to gain the tufa and clip the second clip. Easy, less-than-vertical tufa climbing gets you to the third clip. Climb further, make the fourth clip, and either enjoy a sit down, straddle-style rest on the large feature out right, or if you're a strong independent climber who don't need no rest, bust up to where the fun starts. Establish yourself on a solid undercling and pocket, then make an exciting deadpoint or dyno out left to a large hueco. Move out left to another large hold and, if you're so inclined, make the hero clip for the tourists down below. Continue moving upwards using a series of varied holds to make the final clip. You're not done yet though, as one more big move stands between you and the anchors. Make this move and try your best to hold on to the not-as-good-as-you-would-like clipping jug just below the anchors.

One additional note: all of the clips are safe, but please use caution and make sure you are well-established while clipping the fourth bolt, as the clip may be a little reachy for shorter climbers and the fall would not be great.

Dragonfly also serves as the beginning of the 5.14a route "Ten Years."

Location

Like all Riverside climbs, this is alongside of the road. It is the third route left of the large vertical black streak on the main wall, has a flat belay area, and starts just left of a tufa that is about 10 ft off the ground.

Protection

6 bolts + anchors

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