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Routes in Riverside

Dragonfly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Everything Guy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Sister Mother Fucker S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: JJ WaiQiao (12/2011)
Page Views: 29 total · 9/month
Shared By: Martin Jackson on Apr 15, 2018
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Start to the very right of the black, ground-level tufa and work your way up the slightly overhanging terrain on decent ledges and jugs. The crux occurs just after the 8th bolt, requiring a high foot and a reach, though even shorter climbers shouldn't have too much trouble here. Finish up with some more decent holds, a couple of crimps, clipping the chains, and waving to the tourists taking your picture below!

This route is still a little dirty as of April 2018, but has some very nice movement and should clean up nicely as it sees more traffic.

Location

This climb lies between two 5.11b's and starts directly to the right of a black tufa. If traveling from Yangshuo, this wall is just before the main Riverside wall. Just climb down into a ditch right off the side of the road and get climbing!

Protection

10 bolts + anchors with fixed clips (please don't toprope through these!)

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