Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cretaceous area

Elephant Riders T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b A0
Firewall (aka: Flying Buttress), The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Soul's Awakening (half) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
VPN Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wind of the Valley T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ryder Stroud
Page Views: 15 total · 15/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 14, 2018
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A line that sat dormant and undeveloped next to Soul's Awakening, Liming's first modern climbing route, for years. After a lot of loose rock removal and scrubbing, it is currently a 3-pitch, mixed protection classic with potential to someday top out the formation (with lots of scrubbing in a big chimney). For now, open pitches are a great adventure, with plenty of outrageous exposure to make for a great day out.

P1: Start on a sandy slope 6 meters left of Soul's Awakening on the other side of a large boulder. Hard, technical, compression moves on bad holds will get you through the first 4 bolts. Pull some balance-y hard moves to a flake above and the 5th bolt. From here, the climbing eases into enjoyable, steep climbing up to a ledge with a small tree. Behind the tree, climb an easier but persistently twig-filled corner. The top out moves to the anchor can be protected with a #4 cam, if necessary. (5.11c/d, 11 bolts with optional #4, ~30m)

P2: Originally freed at 5.10d, the route now has A0 for the end of the route because of considerations of safety for both climbers and the local Lisu village below the Dinner Wall. Climb off the belay into a thuggish boulder problem off the ledge. Follow a short finger crack up to easier terrain. Don't worry about the block wedged above the finger crack (feature tapers towards the front and keeps it in. I tried 101 ways to remove that block.). Workk in some wide gear and climb 20 ft. of hard OW to the money: twin hand cracks. At the roof above, clip the bolts and aid your way toward the exit face holds to the tree. DO NOT try to use the large block above. Reach the belay on an awesome tree (5.10d, A0, 2 bolts with single #.2-.4, double #5-3, single #4, double #5-6, ~25m)

P3: This is it! Prepare for some wicked exposure! Climb an easy hand crack for 3 meters off the belay into the massive Elephant Ear. Launch into the enormous, steep, overhanging feature pasting your feet on the steep, glassy wall to the left. Hard, powerful moves above nothing but air beneath you will bring you to a section of the crack too wide for gear. . Work through some steep moves into the bolted section above. Wiggle and weasel your way up this wide crack to a sloping ledge above. Off the ledge, follow 2 more bolts up a slab to a ledge with the belay station and enjoy one of the most exposed, scenic belay ledges in Liming! (5.12b/c, 8 bolts with single #1, 3, and 4, triple #5 and double #6; ~32 meters)

Potential P4-5: Above the P3 belay ledge is an enormous, car-width chasm into the cliff. These pitches will go one day, but a lot of cleaning and bolting is needed before these pitches can be climbed.

Descent from P3: 70 meter rope is highly recommended! If you are an OW master, the route can be cleaned on lower, clipping the lowest bolt as a redirect. Otherwise, belay your second from the P3 anchor station and rig a rappel. The first rappelling climber should clip the lowest bolt as a redirect. When level with the P2 anchor station, she can swing over or use a tree branch to pull back in. The first rapelling climber can then fix the bottom of the rappel line to pull the second climber back in. The remaining rappels are straightforward.

- An alternative lower for P3 is to bring an extra anchor cord left as a long strand. Clip this cord to an anchor bolt. When the leader descends, she can clip the lowest bolt as a redirect. Belayer can chuck the back end of the cord to the leader, and the leader can pull back into the belay station.

Location

- 6 meters left of Soul's Awakening on the other side of the large boulder splitting the two routes.

Protection

Gear: single #.2-.4, double #.5-3, single #4, triple #5, double #6; 12 slings or dog bone mix; bolts (P1: 11 bolts; P2: 2 bolts; P3: 8 bolts)

Photos

0 Comments

More About Elephant Riders

Printer-Friendly