Type: Trad, Aid, 360 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Ryder Stroud and Peter Chasteen
Page Views: 247 total · 17/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 14, 2018
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

A line that sat dormant and undeveloped next to Soul's Awakening, Liming's first modern climbing route, for years. After a lot of loose rock removal and scrubbing, it is now an amazing, mixed top out multipitch. While there are bolts en-route, don't be fooled into thinking this is a sport route! In fact, the required rack is heavier than many purely trad routes in Liming!

P1: Start on a sandy slope 6 meters left of Soul's Awakening on the other side of a large boulder. Hard, technical, compression moves on bad holds will get you through the first 4 bolts. Pull some balance-y hard moves to a flake above and the 5th bolt. From here, the climbing eases into enjoyable, steep climbing up to a ledge with a small tree. Behind the tree, climb an easier but persistently twig-filled corner. The top out moves to the anchor can be protected with a #3 or #4 cam, if necessary. (5.11c, 11 bolts with 1 #4 cam, ~30m)

P2: Originally freed at 5.10d, the route now has A0 for the end of the route because of considerations of safety for both climbers and the local Lisu village below the Dinner Wall. Climb off the belay into a thuggish boulder problem off the ledge. Follow a short finger crack up to easier terrain. Don't worry about the block wedged above the finger crack (feature tapers towards the front and keeps it in. I tried 101 ways to remove that block.). Work in some wide gear and climb 20 ft. of hard OW to the money: twin hand cracks. At the roof above, clip the bolts and aid your way toward the exit face holds to the tree. DO NOT try to use the large block above (has a big chalk "X" on it). Reach the belay on an awesome tree (5.10d, A0, 2 bolts with single #.2-.4, double #5-3, single #4, double #5-6, ~25m)

P3: "The Elephant Ear:" This is it! Prepare for some wicked exposure! Climb an easy hand crack for 3 meters off the belay into the massive Elephant Ear. Launch into the enormous, steep, overhanging feature pasting your feet on the steep, glassy wall to the left. Hard, powerful moves above nothing but air beneath you will bring you to a section of the crack too wide for gear. . Work through some steep moves into the bolted section above. Wiggle and weasel your way up this wide crack to a sloping ledge above. Off the ledge, follow 2 more bolts up a slab to a ledge with the belay station. Dangle your feet off the edge and enjoy one of the most exposed, scenic belay ledges in Liming! (5.12b/c, 8 bolts with single #1, 3, and 4, triple #5 and double #6; ~32 meters)

P4: "The Crack to the Center of the Earth:" Off the belay is the start of a gigantic chimney. Wiggle off the belay edge and enter the chasm as deep as you dare, clipping the occasional bolt on the right wall. Bolts are thoughtfully placed, but there are a couple of mandatory "don't fall" sections through the easier climbing. Spelunking climbing deep in the crack will lead you to a cool, gigantic chockstone you can stand on. Make some moves off the stone to reach a ledge where you will see a rappel anchor. Skip this anchor (it is just for the rappel). Continue on to where the crack narrows. Make some cool "jiu jitsu moves" up into the squeeze and follow the line of least resistance to the top of the wall! Belay bolts are on the right wall. Sit on the ledge inside the crack just below the lip and belay your second. The rappel tree is just above the lip of the crack on the left side. (5.9 PG13, ~35 meters, 7 bolts).

Descent: From the top of P4, spot a tree just above the lip of the crack (climber's left). Scramble to it. The tree has a webbing anchor and carabiners. Short rappel to the station halfway through the chimney (~15-17 meters). From there, rappel to the  anchor atop P3. From the anchor on P3. Rappel the Elephant Ear. You MUST use a quickdraw and clip the lowest lead bolt on the Elephant Ear as a redirect (protects the rope more from grating on the P3 belay ledge and brings you closer to the P2 belay tree). Matrix-style swing your way back towards the tree until you can grab it and clip the P2 anchor. Fix the end of the rope as a pull line for your partner. Once both of you reach the P2 anchor stations, the remaining raps to the ground are straightforward. 70m rope advised.

If you're in a particularly adventurous mood, you can top out the Dinner Wall, scramble to the crest, turn left, and follow the faint trail down the large gulley to the south of the formation. You follow faint goat tracks down a steep ridge into a broader gulley that will link up with the valley with the Orange Sky and Space Mountain areas.

Location

- 6 meters left of Soul's Awakening on the other side of the large boulder splitting the two routes.

Protection


Gear: single #.2-.4, double #.5-3, single #4, triple #5, double #6; 12 slings or dog bone mix; bolts (P1: 11 bolts; P2: 2 bolts; P3: 8 bolts; P4: 7 bolts; bolt counts do NOT include anchors)

70m rope recommended for some of the raps.

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