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Mid-Evil Times

5.10, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 8 votes
FA: Dave Spies & Derek Field (2018)
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Village of Oak… > Castle Rock Area > Castle Rock > S Face

Description

Mid-Evil Times is the left crack on the central south face of South Castle Tower (Excalibur is the right one).

Scramble left along the ledge past Excalibur to the base of the broken crack. Climb past weirdly seated chockstones into a good handcrack interrupted by an evil crux boulder problem in the middle (one bolt), then resume the slammer hands. Two-bolt chain anchor in the alcove.

We recommend rapping from here. If you wanna go to the summit, climb out the roof via a short fierce boulder problem on ridiculously sugary rock. There's a good tree root for belay up there (seriously).

Location

Broken handcrack on the left side of the central south face, between Jester (right-facing corner) and Excalibur (wide crack in middle of face).

Protection

Double rack to 3"
Single 60m rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Excalibur in the sun. (Henchman, Jester, and Mid-Evil Times in the shade)
[Hide Photo] Excalibur in the sun. (Henchman, Jester, and Mid-Evil Times in the shade)
Sosa enjoying her visit to Mid-Evil Times
[Hide Photo] Sosa enjoying her visit to Mid-Evil Times
Dave Spies starts up Mid-Evil Times.
[Hide Photo] Dave Spies starts up Mid-Evil Times.
Patrick Kingsbury making his onsight of Mid Evil Times.
[Hide Photo] Patrick Kingsbury making his onsight of Mid Evil Times.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Keith Noback
Scottsdale, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Heel hook to a chicken wing. What will they think of next?
Very nice route, just wish it were longer. Jan 5, 2019
SummitSender
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] For the area this is the good route. Mar 19, 2019