PRINT: Rock Climb Feel the Chi, Smith Rock

Feel the Chi

5.10a/b, Sport,

Avg: 2.6 from 199 votes
FA: Hiroki Ide and Phil Chi
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (c) Shipwreck Wall > Shipwreck Wall - Rive…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Ascends a short slab to a small overhanging bulge. Continues up on less than vertical terrain to new anchors right of Time to Power 1st pitch finish. Route is new, use caution as there is still some loose rock in places.

Location

Shipwreck Wall River Face- just uphill and to the right of Time to Power.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors: chains with steel carabiners

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rare afternoon drizzle adds a little fun to an otherwise gorgeous day.

Ian cruising "Feel the Chi", August 2020

Chris reaching to Feel the Chi

Brian starting up Feel the Chi

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bSebastian

5.10-

Nice work fellas, fun route - definitely use caution. Great to have some more moderates at Smith. Apr 16, 2018

Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR

5.10b

Onsighted this one yesterday. Not in the Watt's book, obviously. I counted eight bolts.

Rock was mostly clean though my partner and I did kick off some loose pebble-sized rocks. Wear a helmet! Apr 30, 2018

CritConrad
Bend, OR

5.10b

the jug at the anchor definitely will rip off in time. seems like a good candidate to intentionally trundle from a top rope belay with the belayer at a safe stance. May 10, 2018

Quincy aka Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA

5.10a

High friction rock with many options for moves, a solid 5.10a, and the route goes straight up. Route is chossy. Friends who don't typically struggle on 10as were struggling on this one. Oct 16, 2018

Yamabushi

Huge thanks to Smith Rock Spring Thing effort and everyone worked on building the nice platform terrace at the bottom of the route! Also thank you to whomever installed the Metolius steel biners on the chains. With enough traffic the route feels much cleaner than the day one. After more than 6 months all the bolts were re-torqued to the proper specs. Jan 8, 2019

Ryan Westby
Portland, OR

5.10a

Fun! Great climb for someone breaking into 5.10 Aug 10, 2020

Nick Drake
Kent, WA

Nice route, very approachable and reasonably spaced bolts by modern standards. Didn't notice anything loose on it at this point. Sep 28, 2020

Stacy Levichev

5.10a

Such fun movement on this route! Definitely more 10a than b. Didn’t notice any loose rock anymore. Jun 7, 2021

Jonathan Garner

5.10a

A good warm-up route for those who climb above this grade, or a good project route for those looking to break into the 5.10s. Falls could be mildly sketchy because you climb right of the bolt line through half the route so swing potential is there but not tremendous. I didn't find any one specific crux section, just fairly sustained climbing throughout. If there was a crux, I'd call it a 5.9- crux, but the level of sustained climbing on some crimps and small feet makes 5.10a feel accurate. Oct 11, 2022

Mattisadude

more athletic than typical smith routes. More like a gym/red river gorge route. Big holds, cool movement Dec 11, 2022